Day 3: Sate lunch and Chinatown

 Semarang - After Candi Gedong Songo, we went for lunch.  Sometimes the best food experiences come from local recommendations. My driver confidently told me he knew the best satay in all of Indonesia and brought me to Sate Sapi Pak Kempleng. With such a bold claim, my expectations were naturally high.

Without hesitation, he ordered 10 sticks of beef satay for each of us, along with lontong; rice cakes wrapped and cooked in banana leaves. The setting was simple and local, giving it an authentic, no-frills dining atmosphere.

Lontong

When the satay arrived, it looked promising, freshly grilled with a nice char. However, upon tasting, the beef was not as tender as I had expected. It had a slightly tougher texture, which was a bit surprising given its reputation.

Peanut sauce

That said, what truly stood out was the peanut sauce. Served generously in a bowl, I poured it over my lontong, allowing the rice cakes to soak up the rich, nutty flavours. The sauce was thick, fragrant, and incredibly tasty and is easily the highlight of the meal.

While the satay itself may not have fully lived up to the hype, the overall experience was still enjoyable, especially thanks to the delicious peanut sauce and the local charm of the place.

Next, the driver brought me to Vihara Buddhagaya Watugong.  A Buddhist temple in Semarang one of the tallest Pagoda in Indonesia.

I asked my driver to find some semarang durians and I bought one durian for Rp100,000 and tasted like kampung durian slightly sweet, thin skin but many seeds.  I had my filled and my driver drove me back to my hotel.

At 6pm, my driver picked me up again to go to Chinatown for the the Pasar Semawis.  This is Semarang popular weekend night market claimed to offer a vast selection of local Semarang food, traditional Javanese dishes, and Chinese-influenced delicacies, ranging from halal to non-halal (such as pork dishes).  But it was so quiet with few stalls opened that I decided to go elsewhere for dinner.

Citraland Mall @ Simpang Lima is a modern mall and I had dinner at Tong Tji.  This is an Indonesian tea chain that diverisify into food and restaurant business.  I had the sate ayam and gado-gado.  The sate ayam was tender and savoury.  The gado-gado had corn mixed with the vegetables to give a sweet taste add with the belingo crackers; it was a satisfying meal.  

sate ayam

gado gado

Day 3: A Scenic Journey to Candi Gedong Songo

Semarang - About a two-hour drive from Semarang, my visit to Candi Gedong Songo was one of the most refreshing and scenic experiences of the trip. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Ungaran, this ancient temple complex offers not just history, but breathtaking views and cool mountain air and a welcome escape from the humidity of the city.

Candi Gedong Songo, which translates to “Nine Buildings,” is a collection of Hindu temples believed to have been built during the 8th–9th century, during the Mataram Kingdom. These temples are spread across the hillside, reflecting the architectural style and religious practices of early Javanese civilisation. Today, only five main temple groups remain accessible, but each one tells a story of Indonesia’s rich past.

The entrance fee was Rp75,000, and the journey began at Gedong I, the first temple complex. Sitting at an altitude of 1,208 metres above sea level, it is the easiest to reach and one of the most visited spots. Before entering, I paid a small fee of Rp3,000 to rent a cloth as a sign of respect. The temple itself is modest yet atmospheric, with misty mountain views adding to its charm.

From Gedong I, I continued the trek upward towards Gedong II. The path winds through lush greenery and offers stunning panoramic views at every turn. It’s a relatively gentle hike, but the elevation makes it feel more adventurous. Along the way, I passed locals offering horse rides; it's an alternative for those who prefer not to walk.

As one of the five restored sites (Gedong I-V), Temple II is part of the oldest Hindu structures in Java, predating Borobudur and Prambanan.

Gedong III - Gedong Songo III dates to the 8th century, with many suggesting 730-800 as the most likely date.  

my driver

One of the most interesting stops was the natural hot springs located between Gedong III and IV. Rich in sulfur, the springs have a strong, distinctive smell; somewhat like boiled eggs but they are known for their therapeutic properties. Seeing the steam rise against the cool mountain air created a surreal and almost mystical atmosphere.

hot spring swimming pool

very hot water

The highlight of the visit was reaching Gedong IV located even higher up at around 1,300 metres above sea level. These temple complexes are larger and more expansive compared to the earlier ones. At Gedong IV, there is one main temple surrounded by more than ten smaller ruins, along with another temple located about 100 metres away. The area opens into a wide field surrounded by pine forests, making it one of the most picturesque spots in the entire complex.

Gedong IV - the last temple at the highest elevation of Candi Gedong Songo.

From here, the view of Mount Ungaran in the background is simply stunning. It’s no surprise that this area is popular for photography and even horseback riding. The combination of ancient ruins, open landscapes, and mountain scenery creates a truly unforgettable experience.