Walking along Hangzhou Grand Canal

Hangzhou - One of the most relaxing and enjoyable experiences during our time in Hangzhou was simply walking along the historic Grand Canal. While many visitors focus on famous attractions like West Lake, the Grand Canal offered a different kind of beauty with a quieter, more atmospheric, and deeply connected to the daily rhythm of local life.

The canal itself was absolutely beautiful. Long willow trees lined both sides of the waterway, their branches drooping gracefully toward the canal surface. As the breeze blew gently, the willow leaves swayed softly above the water, creating reflections that made the scenery feel almost like a traditional Chinese painting. Walking beneath these trees was peaceful and calming, especially compared to the busy city streets nearby.

As we continued our walk, we came across several impressive sculptures depicting scenes from ancient China. Many of these sculptures showed merchants, labourers, and traders transporting goods along the canal during earlier dynasties. They served as reminders of how important the Grand Canal once was to China’s economy and development.

For centuries, the canal acted as a major transport route linking northern and southern China. Goods such as silk, rice, tea, ceramics, and spices were moved through these waterways, helping cities like Hangzhou flourish into prosperous trading centres. Seeing the sculptures helped bring that rich history to life.

Further along the canal, we noticed an elderly man quietly fishing by the riverside. He sat patiently with his fishing rod beside the calm waters, completely unbothered by the passing crowds. The scene felt timeless and peaceful, almost like something from another era. Watching him fish beneath the willow trees added to the tranquil charm of the canal.

The pathways along the canal were lively but not overcrowded. There were many small stalls, cafes, and local vendors set up beside the river, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Some people were relaxing on benches while others enjoyed leisurely walks or took photographs beside the water.

At one point during our walk, we stopped by a fruit drink stall. The fruit drinks looked refreshing, especially after spending time walking under the afternoon sun. We ordered a cold fruit drink and walked enjoying the beautiful canal scenery while viewing the many shops along the canal.

Beside the fruit drink stall was a small steamed meat bun stall that immediately caught my attention. The freshly steamed buns smelled delicious, and I could not resist buying one. The bun was warm, soft, and flavourful, such simple local street food but incredibly satisfying. Sometimes the best travel experiences come from these small food discoveries rather than expensive restaurants.

One particularly interesting stop during our walk was the famous Lang Lang Music World music store. Named after the internationally renowned Chinese pianist Lang Lang, the store stood out prominently along the canal area. Music drifted softly from inside, adding another layer of culture and elegance to the surroundings.

Before ending our walk, we also stopped at Moto patisserie to try one of their specialised bread pastries. The pastry was beautifully made, fresh, and slightly different from the breads we usually eat back home. Sitting there enjoying pastry and slowly appreciate the atmosphere around us.

What made the Grand Canal so special was not only its history but also how alive and vibrant it still feels today. 

Unlike some historical attractions that feel frozen in time, the canal continues to be part of everyday life in Hangzhou. Locals exercise, fish, eat, socialise, and relax beside the water while visitors quietly admire the scenery.

A Journey Along the Historic Hangzhou Canals

 Hangzhou - One of the most fascinating experiences during our trip to Hangzhou was exploring the city’s historic canal system, part of the world-famous Grand Canal. While many visitors to Hangzhou focus mainly on the beauty of West Lake, the canals reveal another side of the city; one deeply connected to China’s long history of trade, transport, culture, and daily life.

The Grand Canal is one of the greatest engineering achievements in Chinese history. Stretching thousands of kilometres, it is a vast system of interconnected canals linking major rivers and lakes across North and East China. For centuries during medieval and premodern China, the canal served as a vital transport network connecting the prosperous south with the political centres in the north. Goods such as rice, silk, tea, ceramics, and grain were transported through these waterways, helping to sustain entire dynasties and economies.

Today, parts of the canal remain active while other sections have become scenic cultural areas that preserve the charm and heritage of old China. Walking along these waterways allows visitors to experience a quieter and more authentic side of Hangzhou compared to the modern skyscrapers and shopping districts.

Changee yacht

Interior of Changee yacht

Our canal journey began at one of the ferry points where locals and tourists gathered to board what many people casually refer to as the “Hangzhou water taxi.” Unlike expensive tourist cruises, this ferry service is part of the city’s everyday public transport system and offers an affordable and enjoyable way to experience the canals.

Hangzhou canal ferry

What impressed me immediately was the orderly queue formed by passengers waiting to board the ferry. Everyone waited patiently and calmly despite the steady flow of people arriving at the dock. The atmosphere was organised and efficient, reflecting the discipline often seen in Chinese public transport systems.

The ferry fee itself was remarkably affordable — only RMB3 per person. Considering the scenic experience and convenience, it felt like incredible value. In many countries, such a boat ride through a historic canal district would likely cost several times more.

As we boarded the ferry, I was excited to finally experience the canals from the water itself rather than simply walking beside them. The ferry was clean, practical, and used by both commuters and visitors. Some passengers appeared to be regular locals heading home or travelling between districts, while others, like us, were clearly there to enjoy the sightseeing experience.

As the boat slowly moved along the canal, the scenery around us immediately began to change. Modern city roads and buildings gradually gave way to older-style architecture, stone bridges, traditional riverside houses, and quiet walkways lined with willow trees. The canals offered a unique perspective of Hangzhou that felt slower, calmer, and more reflective.

One of the most beautiful aspects of the journey was observing how old and new China coexist side by side. In some areas, modern apartment buildings rose behind historic riverside structures that appeared untouched by time. Elderly residents sat outside chatting with neighbours while younger people walked along the pathways carrying smartphones and takeaway drinks. It was a fascinating blend of history and modern life existing together naturally.

The water itself was calm and peaceful, reflecting the surrounding buildings and bridges like a mirror. Occasionally, other ferries and boats passed by, creating gentle ripples across the canal. The sound of water moving against the sides of the boat added to the relaxing atmosphere.

As the ferry continued moving through the canal system, I found myself imagining what these waterways must have looked like centuries ago during the height of imperial China. Back then, countless merchant boats carrying grain, silk, spices, and ceramics would have travelled along these same routes. Officials, traders, scholars, and travellers would have relied on the canal system to move across vast distances within China.

The Grand Canal played an essential role in connecting different regions of the country economically and culturally. Without it, many cities including Hangzhou may never have developed into the prosperous centres they became. It is truly remarkable that such an ancient infrastructure project continues to influence modern China today.

The experience also reminded me how important waterways once were before the development of modern highways and rail systems. For centuries, rivers and canals were the lifelines of civilisations, supporting trade, communication, agriculture, and urban development.

The Hangzhou canals are not only historically important but also deeply atmospheric and beautiful. They offer visitors a chance to slow down and appreciate the rhythms of local life while reflecting on China’s extraordinary historical achievements.

A Warm Lunch, Surprising Conversations, and Hidden Discoveries in Hangzhou

 Hanzhou - One of the things I enjoy most while travelling is not necessarily visiting famous tourist attractions, but discovering the small everyday moments that make a trip memorable. After Hu Xueyan house tour, we stumbled upon a small family-run restaurant that served one of the most satisfying and heartwarming meals of our journey.

The restaurant itself was modest and simple, tucked quietly along one of the streets away from the busy tourist crowds. It was not a fancy establishment with luxurious decorations or elaborate menus. Instead, it had the comforting atmosphere of a neighbourhood eatery where locals come for affordable, home-style cooking. The restaurant was operated by a husband-and-wife team, and from the moment we stepped inside, we could immediately feel the warmth and friendliness of the place.

I decided to order dumplings, while Edmund chose his usual noodles. The dumplings arrived steaming hot, freshly made, and packed with flavour. The skin was soft yet slightly chewy, while the filling inside was juicy and delicious. I had ordered twelve dumplings, which already felt like a generous portion, but the owner added two dumplings for me at no extra charge.

That simple gesture made the meal even more enjoyable. It was not about the value of the extra dumplings, but the kindness and hospitality behind it. In many large cities today, dining can sometimes feel rushed and impersonal, but this small restaurant reminded me of the charm of old-fashioned hospitality.

The husband, who appeared to be the more outgoing half of the couple, was especially chatty and friendly. Like many curious locals who encounter foreign visitors, he began asking us where we were from. Edmund, however, has a habit of turning the question into a guessing game. Instead of answering directly, he smiled and said, “Guess.”

Without hesitation, the owner immediately replied, “Singapore.” We were genuinely surprised that he guessed correctly so quickly. Perhaps it was luck, or perhaps after years of meeting travellers, he had developed a talent for identifying nationalities from accents, appearance, or behaviour.

As if to prove his skills were real, another customer entered the restaurant shortly after. Before she could say much, the owner confidently guessed that she was from Hong Kong and once again, he was absolutely correct. At that moment, we began wondering whether he possessed some hidden talent for reading people.

But the biggest surprise came next.

After chatting with Edmund for a while, the owner suddenly asked whether he used to be a teacher.  We were stunned.

Edmund had never mentioned his profession, nor had there been any obvious clues during the conversation. Yet somehow, this friendly restaurant owner had correctly guessed that Edmund was formerly a teacher. We laughed in amazement while the owner smiled proudly at another successful guess. Perhaps it was Edmund’s calm speaking style, patient mannerisms, or simply intuition developed through years of interacting with customers.

Moments like these are what make travelling special. Sometimes the most memorable experiences are not grand attractions or expensive activities, but simple human interactions that leave a lasting impression.

After finishing our satisfying lunch, we continued exploring the surrounding streets of Hangzhou. The area had a relaxed atmosphere with small shops, local businesses, and occasional historical buildings mixed among the modern city landscape.

As we walked along, we unexpectedly came across a small Hangzhou museum. To our surprise, admission was completely free, so we decided to step inside and take a look.

Although not very large, the museum was thoughtfully curated and provided interesting insights into Hangzhou’s history and development. One section of the museum showcased the contributions and impact of various Chinese presidents and national leaders on the city of Hangzhou over the years. 

Through photographs, displays, and historical information, visitors could see how the city evolved economically, culturally, and politically during different periods of modern Chinese history.

Outside the museum was a beautifully landscaped garden featuring sculptures and peaceful walking paths. The garden created a calm atmosphere that contrasted nicely with the busy roads outside. It felt like one of those hidden gems that many tourists might easily overlook.

While exploring the area around the museum, we noticed a majestic pagoda standing prominently across a major road. Its elegant structure immediately caught our attention against the city skyline. Curious to see it up close, we carefully crossed the busy street and made our way toward it.

The pagoda looked magnificent from nearby, showcasing traditional Chinese architectural beauty with its layered roofs and intricate design details. The contrast between the ancient-style pagoda and the surrounding modern urban environment made the scene even more striking.

Entrance to the Pagoda was free and was an exhibition organised by Eastman Kodak. The exhibition added another interesting dimension to our afternoon walk, blending modern visual displays and creativity alongside the historical and cultural surroundings.  We climb up the stairs and it was a magnificant view of downtown Hangzhou.

The delicious dumplings, the friendly and incredibly perceptive restaurant owner, the quiet museum, the beautiful garden, and the majestic pagoda all combined to create memories that felt authentic and deeply human.

Hu Xueyan's former house

 Hangzhou - During my visit to Hangzhou, one of the most memorable historical attractions I explored was the former residence of Hu Xueyan. Hidden within the busy city streets, this grand mansion offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the wealth, culture, and lifestyle of one of China’s most famous businessmen during the late Qing Dynasty.

Hu Xueyan was a legendary Chinese merchant and financier who lived from 1823 to 1885. Often regarded as one of the wealthiest businessmen in Qing Dynasty China, he built a vast business empire involving banking, trade, medicine, and government financing. He was also known for his close relationship with high-ranking officials and for supporting military campaigns during turbulent periods in Chinese history. Today, his former residence in Hangzhou stands as an impressive reminder of his success and influence.

The entrance fee to the residence was very affordable. Standard admission was 20 yuan, while visitors aged 60 and above enjoyed a discounted entry fee of only 10 yuan. Considering the size, beauty, and historical value of the property, it was definitely worth the visit.

From the moment we entered the residence, I was amazed by how enormous and intricate the house was. The entire place felt almost like a maze, with countless hallways, hidden corners, interconnected rooms, courtyards, and passageways. It was easy to imagine how confusing it would have been for first-time visitors during Hu Xueyan’s era.

hidden cellar below

We spent about an hour slowly walking through the residence, and every section revealed something unique and beautiful. One of the most interesting features inside the mansion was a small Quan Yin temple located within the house itself. Quan Yin, the Buddhist goddess of mercy and compassion, is deeply respected in Chinese culture. Having a private temple within the residence reflected both Hu Xueyan’s religious beliefs and his immense wealth.

The architecture throughout the mansion was elegant and detailed. Traditional wooden carvings, antique furniture, and decorative windows showcased the refined craftsmanship of the Qing Dynasty period. The residence combined luxury with traditional Chinese aesthetics in a very harmonious way.

I especially enjoyed the many courtyards scattered throughout the property. Each courtyard had its own unique character and landscaping style. There were beautifully maintained bonsai displays, carefully arranged plants, and peaceful seating areas that created a calm and relaxing atmosphere. Even though the residence was large, the courtyards brought a sense of tranquility and balance to the space.

One room that particularly caught my attention displayed a stunning black porcelain vase decorated with intricate mother-of-pearl inlays. The craftsmanship was extraordinary, and the shimmering details reflected the artistic sophistication of that era. It was easy to see how wealthy families used art and decorative objects to showcase their status and taste.

kitchen

noodle machine maker

Another fascinating area was the enormous kitchen. Compared to modern homes, the kitchen was surprisingly huge and designed to support large-scale meal preparation for the household, guests, and servants. It provided insight into how extensive daily operations must have been within such a wealthy residence.

The mansion also featured many carefully curated rock gardens throughout the property. Traditional Chinese rock gardens are designed to imitate natural mountain landscapes and symbolise harmony between man and nature. 

The rocks, ponds, pathways, and plants were thoughtfully arranged to create scenic views from different angles. Walking through these gardens felt peaceful and almost meditative.

As we explored deeper into the residence, I became increasingly impressed by the scale and complexity of the property. Every corridor seemed to lead to another hidden room or courtyard. 

The mansion was not only a home but also a reflection of Hu Xueyan’s immense success, cultural appreciation, and social status during one of China’s most interesting historical periods.

I felt that the former residence of Hu Xueyan was far more than just an old house. It was a living piece of Chinese history filled with art, architecture, culture, and stories from the Qing Dynasty.