Day 3: Sate lunch and Chinatown

 Semarang - After Candi Gedong Songo, we went for lunch.  Sometimes the best food experiences come from local recommendations. My driver confidently told me he knew the best satay in all of Indonesia and brought me to Sate Sapi Pak Kempleng. With such a bold claim, my expectations were naturally high.

Without hesitation, he ordered 10 sticks of beef satay for each of us, along with lontong; rice cakes wrapped and cooked in banana leaves. The setting was simple and local, giving it an authentic, no-frills dining atmosphere.

Lontong

When the satay arrived, it looked promising, freshly grilled with a nice char. However, upon tasting, the beef was not as tender as I had expected. It had a slightly tougher texture, which was a bit surprising given its reputation.

Peanut sauce

That said, what truly stood out was the peanut sauce. Served generously in a bowl, I poured it over my lontong, allowing the rice cakes to soak up the rich, nutty flavours. The sauce was thick, fragrant, and incredibly tasty and is easily the highlight of the meal.

While the satay itself may not have fully lived up to the hype, the overall experience was still enjoyable, especially thanks to the delicious peanut sauce and the local charm of the place.

Next, the driver brought me to Vihara Buddhagaya Watugong.  A Buddhist temple in Semarang one of the tallest Pagoda in Indonesia.

Later, he sent me back to hotel to rest and at 6pm picked me up again to go to Chinatown for the the Pasar Semawis.  This is Semarang popular weekend night market claimed to offer a vast selection of local Semarang food, traditional Javanese dishes, and Chinese-influenced delicacies, ranging from halal to non-halal (such as pork dishes).  But it was so quiet with few stalls opened that I decided to go elsewhere for dinner.

Citraland Mall @ Simpang Lima is a modern mall and I had dinner at Tong Tji.  This is an Indonesian tea chain that diverisify into food and restaurant business.  I had the sate ayam and gado-gado.  The sate ayam was tender and savoury.  The gado-gado had corn mixed with the vegetables to give a sweet taste add with the belingo crackers; it was a satisfying meal.  

sate ayam

gado gado

Day 3: A Scenic Journey to Candi Gedong Songo

Semarang - About a two-hour drive from Semarang, my visit to Candi Gedong Songo was one of the most refreshing and scenic experiences of the trip. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Ungaran, this ancient temple complex offers not just history, but breathtaking views and cool mountain air and a welcome escape from the humidity of the city.

Candi Gedong Songo, which translates to “Nine Buildings,” is a collection of Hindu temples believed to have been built during the 8th–9th century, during the Mataram Kingdom. These temples are spread across the hillside, reflecting the architectural style and religious practices of early Javanese civilisation. Today, only five main temple groups remain accessible, but each one tells a story of Indonesia’s rich past.

The entrance fee was Rp75,000, and the journey began at Gedong I, the first temple complex. Sitting at an altitude of 1,208 metres above sea level, it is the easiest to reach and one of the most visited spots. Before entering, I paid a small fee of Rp3,000 to rent a cloth as a sign of respect. The temple itself is modest yet atmospheric, with misty mountain views adding to its charm.

From Gedong I, I continued the trek upward towards Gedong II. The path winds through lush greenery and offers stunning panoramic views at every turn. It’s a relatively gentle hike, but the elevation makes it feel more adventurous. Along the way, I passed locals offering horse rides; it's an alternative for those who prefer not to walk.

As one of the five restored sites (Gedong I-V), Temple II is part of the oldest Hindu structures in Java, predating Borobudur and Prambanan.

Gedong III - Gedong Songo III dates to the 8th century, with many suggesting 730-800 as the most likely date.  

my driver

One of the most interesting stops was the natural hot springs located between Gedong III and IV. Rich in sulfur, the springs have a strong, distinctive smell; somewhat like boiled eggs but they are known for their therapeutic properties. Seeing the steam rise against the cool mountain air created a surreal and almost mystical atmosphere.

hot spring swimming pool

very hot water

The highlight of the visit was reaching Gedong IV located even higher up at around 1,300 metres above sea level. These temple complexes are larger and more expansive compared to the earlier ones. At Gedong IV, there is one main temple surrounded by more than ten smaller ruins, along with another temple located about 100 metres away. The area opens into a wide field surrounded by pine forests, making it one of the most picturesque spots in the entire complex.

Gedong IV - the last temple at the highest elevation of Candi Gedong Songo.

From here, the view of Mount Ungaran in the background is simply stunning. It’s no surprise that this area is popular for photography and even horseback riding. The combination of ancient ruins, open landscapes, and mountain scenery creates a truly unforgettable experience.

Day 2: Afternoon at Kota Tua

Semarang - For lunch, I made my way to Spiegel Bar & Bistro, located in the charming Old Town. Housed in a beautifully restored colonial building dating back to 1895, Spiegel was once a premium department store known as NV Winkel Maatschappij H. Spiegel. Today, it has been transformed into a stylish bistro while preserving its high ceilings and rustic European charm. 

I ordered their fried rice with bone marrow which is a rich and indulgent dish that perfectly blended local flavours with a modern twist.

Free bread...

fried rice with bone marrow

After my lunch, I visited Museum Kota Lama;  it was a fascinating journey through time, offering a deeper understanding of how Semarang evolved into the city it is today.

Located in the heart of the Old Town, the museum stands on the site of what was once the Bubakan fountain roundabout, now transformed into a modern heritage space. Inside, the museum showcases the history of Semarang dating back to 1547, highlighting its growth from a trading port into a vibrant colonial city.

immersive video with a guide throughout

What makes this museum particularly unique is its use of immersive technology. Through interactive displays and 3D visualisations, visitors are not just observing history; they are experiencing it. It feels as if you are transported into different eras, witnessing the development of the city firsthand.

underground old train repair

It was a short walk to Semarang Gallery and was a refreshing artistic experience in the heart of the Old Town.  Entrance fee is Rp 25,000.  This gallery is housed in a beautifully restored colonial building, the gallery showcases contemporary Indonesian art, featuring works from both emerging and established local artists. 

The space itself is charming, with high ceilings and a clean, minimalist layout that allows each piece to stand out.

The space itself is charming, with high ceilings and a clean, minimalist layout that allows each piece to stand out. As I walked through the exhibits, I appreciated the diversity of styles and themes, reflecting Indonesia’s rich cultural identity.

 It was a quiet yet inspiring stop, offering a creative contrast to Semarang’s historical landmarks.

Then I walked past Blenduk Church but it was closed.  The Blenduk Church (GPIB Imanuel) in Semarang, built in 1753, is Central Java's oldest Protestant church and a landmark of the Kota Lama (Old Town) district. Renowned for its unique Neo-Classical Baroque architecture, the church features a large, iconic copper dome, known in Javanese as blenduk. It remains an active place of worship.

The streets of Kota Tua is stoned paved road with interested art works.  

Old Dutch buildings converted into commercial offices. 

Bank Mandiri

Telkom Indonesia

Next, I went for a desert in this famous bistro and bar - Marabuta bistro and bar.  My visit to Marabunta Bar & Resto was truly a unique and memorable experience. Located in Semarang’s Old Town, this venue stands out not just for its food, but for its stunning setting. Housed in a beautifully preserved colonial building, the highlight is the impressive interior featuring a large statue of a warrior, giving the space a dramatic and almost theatrical atmosphere.

The restaurant offers a mix of Indonesian and Western dishes, catering to a wide range of tastes.

What makes Marabunta particularly special is how it blends history with modern dining. The high ceilings, vintage architecture, and artistic elements create a distinctive charm that you don’t often find elsewhere.  It’s not just a place to eat, but a place to soak in the character of Semarang’s Old Town.  

Pistachio kunafa chocolate croissant

I had the Pistachio kunafa chocolate croissant is a popular dessert trend that combines the flaky, buttery texture of a French croissant with the rich, crunchy, and nutty filling of a "Dubai-style" pistachio kunafa chocolate bar.  

I went to Chinatown Semarang also called Pecinan Semarng for dinner.   Chinatown in Semarang is busy in the daytime with commodities trading, gold shops, motor shops, etc but come nightfall it becomes quiet.   

I had to walk around to find a restaurant that is opened and came across a mainland Chinese restaurant serving noodles.

After my dinner, I walked around Chinatown - quiet and not many people around.  Came across this alley that led straight to a small Taoist temple.

Back at the hotel, I ordered Lumpia Semarang is a famous Indonesian-Chinese spring roll originating from Semarang, Central Java, characterized by a sweet and savory filling of bamboo shoots (rebung), dried shrimp, chicken or prawn, and scrambled egg. This culinary specialty is often deep-fried to a crispy perfection, served with a thick savory sauce.

Lumpia Semarang