A Scenic 7-Hour Journey from Surakarta (Solo) to Yogyakarta

Surakarta - After spending a wonderful few days exploring the rich culture and cuisine of Surakarta (Solo), it was time to continue my Central Java adventure to Yogyakarta, affectionately known as Jogja. Rather than taking the train, I opted for a private road journey, allowing me to explore several fascinating attractions along the way.

My day began early at 7:00am with a visit to the hotel gym, where I managed to jog 3 kilometres before packing my bags. After checking out, the kind front desk lady helped me arrange a Golden Bird car. Their professional service and experienced drivers made for a comfortable and stress-free journey.

Fort Vastenburg

Our first stop was Fort Vastenburg, an imposing Dutch colonial fort located in the heart of Solo. Built in the 18th century by the Dutch East India Company, the fort was designed to monitor and control the nearby Surakarta Palace. Unfortunately, the fort was closed when I arrived, but I managed to take several photographs from outside its impressive gates. Although ownership disputes have complicated its restoration over the years, Fort Vastenburg remains one of Solo's most important historical landmarks.

Next, we visited Pasar Gede Hardjonagoro, the largest traditional market in Surakarta. The market was bustling with activity as vendors sold everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to meat, spices, flowers, and traditional snacks. My driver reminded me to be mindful of pickpockets, a common precaution in busy traditional markets.

While wandering through the market, I bought a bag of Emping Belinjo crackers. Made from the flattened seeds of the melinjo tree, these traditional Indonesian crackers have a distinctive slightly bitter, nutty flavour that grows more addictive with every bite. I found myself snacking on the entire bag throughout the day's journey. It was the perfect travel companion.

Leaving Solo behind, we drove about one and a half hours into the cool highlands of Karanganyar to visit the remarkable Sukuh Temple (Candi Sukuh).

Unlike most Hindu temples in Indonesia, Sukuh Temple is unlike anything I have ever seen. Built during the 15th century on the slopes of Mount Lawu, the temple resembles a stepped pyramid more commonly associated with the ancient Mayan civilizations than traditional Javanese architecture. 

Even more fascinating are its unusually bold carvings depicting fertility, human anatomy, and the cycle of life. Historians believe these sculptures symbolise purification, fertility, and the continuation of life rather than anything provocative. 

The temple reflects the final years of the Majapahit Kingdom before Islam spread throughout Java, making it one of Indonesia's most unique archaeological sites.

Just 15 minutes away lies the beautiful Jumog Waterfall. Hidden within lush tropical forest, the waterfall cascades approximately 30 metres into a crystal-clear pool below. Often referred to as the "Lost Paradise" of Central Java, Jumog is known for its tranquil atmosphere, cool mountain air, suspension bridges, and beautifully landscaped gardens. 

Unlike some of Indonesia's larger waterfalls, Jumog offers visitors a peaceful retreat where the soothing sounds of rushing water and birdsong create a wonderfully relaxing environment.

My final sightseeing stop was the Kemuning Skywalk, one of Central Java's newest attractions. Suspended high above rolling tea plantations, the elevated glass-and-steel walkway stretches out over the hillside, providing breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding valleys, forests, and Mount Lawu in the distance. 

Standing on the skywalk felt like floating above the landscape. It has quickly become a favourite destination for photographers and visitors seeking spectacular views of Central Java's beautiful countryside.

With sightseeing completed, we settled in for the final 3-hour and 45-minute drive to Yogyakarta. The scenery gradually changed from cool mountain landscapes to bustling towns and fertile plains before finally arriving in Jogja in the evening.

Although the journey lasted nearly seven hours, it never felt tiring. Instead, it became an unforgettable road trip through the heart of Central Java, filled with history, culture, nature, and delicious local snacks. Sometimes, the journey itself becomes just as memorable as the destination, and this drive from Solo to Yogyakarta was certainly one of those experiences.

A Memorable Dinner at Sate Kambing Pak Manto @ Solo

 Solo - No visit to Surakarta (Solo) would be complete without trying one of the city's most iconic culinary institutions, Sate Kambing Pak Manto. Founded by the late Sumanto, affectionately known as Pak Manto, the restaurant has been serving its famous mutton dishes since 1990. From humble beginnings, Pak Manto built his business through hard work and dedication, transforming it into one of Solo's most celebrated dining destinations. Today, the restaurant continues his legacy and remains a favourite among locals, tourists, and even Indonesian dignitaries.

I ordered 10 sticks of mutton satay, three sticks of Sate Buntel, and a refreshing glass of Teh Tawar (unsweetened tea).

The mutton satay was cooked beautifully over charcoal, producing a smoky aroma that immediately whetted my appetite. The meat was incredibly tender with just the right amount of fat, making every bite juicy and flavourful. The satay was lightly seasoned, allowing the natural sweetness of the mutton to shine through without being overwhelmed by spices.

The highlight of the meal, however, was the Sate Buntel. A true specialty of Solo, Sate Buntel is made from finely minced mutton wrapped in a thin layer of lamb fat before being grilled over charcoal. This unique preparation keeps the meat exceptionally moist while creating a wonderfully rich flavour. The texture was soft and succulent, quite different from traditional satay, and I could immediately understand why it has become one of Solo's signature dishes.

To balance the richness of the meal, I paired everything with a glass of Teh Tawar, whose clean, unsweetened taste refreshed the palate after each mouthful.

My dinner at Pak Manto lived up to its legendary reputation. The quality of the meat, traditional cooking techniques, and decades of culinary heritage made it one of the most memorable meals of my trip to Surakarta. If you are a fan of mutton, this is undoubtedly a restaurant that deserves a place on your travel itinerary.

A Taste of Colonial Heritage at Kusuma Sari Restaurant

 Surakarta - For lunch during my stay in Surakarta, I visited Kusuma Sari Restaurant & Ice Cream, one of Solo's long-established dining institutions. Famous for serving Dutch-Solo cuisine dating back to the colonial era, the restaurant offers diners a nostalgic experience with its charming vintage décor that feels as though it has been frozen in the 1980s. The old-fashioned ambience, complete with classic furnishings and timeless elegance, makes it a favourite among both locals and visitors.

To start my meal, I ordered a refreshing pink guava juice, which was naturally sweet and the perfect drink to cool down on a warm afternoon.

Next came the highlight of my lunch—the Sop Buntut (oxtail soup). The rich, aromatic broth was full of flavour, delivering a deep umami taste that had clearly been achieved through hours of slow simmering. The oxtail itself was incredibly tender, with the meat effortlessly falling off the bone. Accompanied by vegetables and served piping hot, it was a wonderfully comforting dish.

For my main course, I chose the classic Indonesian favourite, Gado-Gado. The generous assortment of fresh vegetables, tofu, tempeh, and hard-boiled egg was brought together by a creamy, fragrant peanut sauce that was perfectly balanced between savoury and slightly sweet. Every bite was satisfying and delicious.

Kusuma Sari is more than just a restaurant—it is a piece of Solo's culinary heritage. Combining authentic flavours, nostalgic surroundings, and warm hospitality, it offers a memorable dining experience that beautifully preserves the city's rich food traditions. Anyone visiting Solo should make time to enjoy a meal at this iconic establishment.

A Royal Journey Through Mangkunegaran Palace, Surakarta

Surakarta - After visiting Triwindu market it was a short walk to one of the cultural highlights of Surakarta (Solo); the magnificent Mangkunegaran Palace (Pura Mangkunegaran). Built in 1757, the palace is one of the finest examples of traditional Javanese royal architecture and continues to serve as the residence of the 10th Mangkunegara (KGPAA Mangkunegara X). 

Unlike many historical palaces that function solely as museums, Mangkunegaran remains a living royal institution where Javanese traditions and ceremonies continue to this day.

Gamelan musical instruments

Gamelan is the traditional ensemble music of Indonesia, primarily originating from the islands of Java and Bali.

As it was the Indonesian school holidays, the palace was bustling with visitors from all over the country. After purchasing my admission ticket—I noticed there were different prices for local and foreign visitors—I was assigned an English-speaking tour guide. She warmly welcomed me and accompanied me throughout the tour, patiently explaining the history of the palace while kindly offering to take photographs for me along the way.

Our first stop was the magnificent Pendopo Ageng, the grand audience pavilion where members of the royal family once gathered for official ceremonies and performances. Before entering, I was asked to remove both my shoes and baseball cap as a sign of respect. My guide even provided a small bag for me to carry my belongings, a thoughtful gesture that reflected the palace's attention to visitors.

Inside, I was struck by the sheer elegance of the enormous open pavilion. The marble floor bore subtle stains left behind by floods over many decades, yet it was immaculately clean and beautifully maintained. Looking up, the intricately painted ceiling and towering teak pillars showcased the remarkable craftsmanship of Javanese artisans.

We then proceeded to the royal audience chamber, distinguished by its elegant red carpet, where the prince traditionally receives official guests and conducts important ceremonies. Every room carried a sense of dignity and quiet grandeur, with royal heirlooms, antique furniture, portraits, and ceremonial objects carefully preserved.

The tour continued into the beautifully landscaped gardens, providing a peaceful contrast to the grandeur of the palace buildings. 

Our final stop was a small gallery showcasing traditional Javanese batik and exquisite wayang (shadow puppets), both of which represent Indonesia's rich cultural heritage.

As the tour concluded, I sincerely thanked my guide for her excellent explanations and hospitality. Her passion for preserving Javanese history made the experience far more meaningful.

Visiting Mangkunegaran Palace was more than simply sightseeing; it was an opportunity to step into the living history of Java, where royal traditions, architecture, and culture continue to thrive in the heart of modern Surakarta.

Treasure Hunters at Triwindu Antique Market, Solo

 Surakarta - I took a short walk to the nearby Triwindu Antique Market (Pasar Triwindu), one of Surakarta's most charming and historic shopping destinations. 

Established in 1939 to commemorate the reign of Mangkunegara VII, the market has become a haven for collectors, antique enthusiasts, and tourists looking for unique souvenirs with a story to tell.

Spread across two floors, the market is packed with an eclectic mix of vintage treasures. As I wandered through its narrow aisles, I found stalls displaying old Dutch coins, antique typewriters, vintage cameras, porcelain, traditional Javanese keris (daggers), wooden carvings, shadow puppets, brass ornaments, gramophones, and beautifully crafted teak furniture. Every corner seemed to reveal another fascinating piece of history.

Even if you're not planning to buy anything, Triwindu Market is well worth visiting simply to admire the incredible collection of antiques and experience the nostalgic atmosphere. Many of the shop owners were friendly and happy to share the stories behind their collections, making the visit even more enjoyable.

For anyone interested in history, culture, or vintage collectibles, Triwindu Antique Market offers a delightful glimpse into Indonesia's rich past. It's a place where every item has a history, and every visit feels like a treasure hunt waiting to unfold.

Dinner @ Sulawesis @ Sahid Sudirman

 Jakarta - After a full day exploring Jakarta's historical attractions, I ended the evening with dinner at Suleweis, a well-known restaurant specialising in authentic Manadonese cuisine. Conveniently located in the lobby of Apartemen Sahid Sudirman Residence, right in the heart of Jakarta's bustling business district, Suleweis has built a reputation for serving bold, spicy flavours from North Sulawesi in a comfortable and modern setting.

I had already planned what I wanted to order before arriving. Unfortunately, two of the restaurant's signature items were already sold out—the Bunga Pepaya (papaya flowers), a classic Manadonese vegetable dish prized for its slightly bitter flavour, and their refreshing special coconut drink. While slightly disappointed, it simply gave me the opportunity to explore other items on the menu.

For my main course, I ordered the Sukang Bakar, also known as grilled Leather Jacket Fish. The fish was grilled perfectly, with beautifully charred skin while the flesh remained moist, tender, and naturally sweet. The smoky aroma from the charcoal grilling complemented the fresh seafood wonderfully, and paired with the restaurant's spicy sambal, every mouthful was packed with flavour.

I also ordered an eggplant dish stir fried with Petis Udang, a rich, dark prawn paste commonly used in Indonesian cuisine. Unlike fermented shrimp paste, petis is thick, slightly sweet, and intensely savoury, adding a wonderful umami depth to the soft grilled eggplant. It was a simple dish but incredibly satisfying.

I also couldn't resist ordering a Panada, one of Manado's most famous snacks. Resembling a curry puff, the Panada features a soft, fluffy, slightly sweet bread-like pastry filled with spicy shredded cakalang (skipjack tuna). The contrast between the pillowy dough and the savoury, mildly spicy filling made it an excellent accompaniment to the meal.

Although I missed out on a couple of signature dishes, my dinner at Suleweis was still thoroughly enjoyable through expensive.  The restaurant showcases the distinctive flavours of North Sulawesi with fresh ingredients, expertly prepared seafood, and authentic recipes.

Discovering Jakarta's Maritime Past: Syahbandar Tower and the Maritime Museum

 Jakarta - One of the most fascinating parts of my visit to Jakarta was exploring the historic Syahbandar Tower (Menara Syahbandar) and the nearby Maritime Museum (Museum Bahari), both located in the old harbour district of North Jakarta. Together, they offer a wonderful glimpse into Indonesia's rich maritime history and the colonial past of what was once known as Batavia.

Built in 1839 on the foundations of the former Dutch Bastion Culemborg, the 12-metre-high Syahbandar Tower served as an observation post for incoming ships sailing into the bustling Sunda Kelapa Port. 

It was also regarded as Batavia's original zero-kilometre point, from which distances were measured throughout the city. Interestingly, due to the gradual settling of its foundation over nearly two centuries, the tower now leans slightly, earning it the affectionate nickname "Jakarta's Leaning Tower."

I climbed the tower's three levels via its narrow wooden staircase. At the top, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the old harbour, where traditional Pinisi wooden schooners continue to load and unload cargo much as they have for generations. Looking out across the harbour, it was easy to imagine Dutch merchant ships arriving centuries ago, bringing spices and goods from across the Indonesian archipelago.

Just a short walk from the tower is the Maritime Museum (Museum Bahari). The museum occupies a series of beautifully restored 17th-century warehouses that once belonged to the powerful Dutch East India Company (VOC). 

These warehouses stored valuable spices such as cloves, nutmeg, pepper, coffee, and tea before they were shipped to Europe, making Batavia one of the world's most important trading ports during the colonial era.

Inside, the museum showcases Indonesia's remarkable maritime heritage through exhibits on traditional boats, navigation equipment, historical maps, naval history, and the country's centuries-old shipbuilding traditions. The displays highlight Indonesia's identity as the world's largest archipelago, with over 17,000 islands connected by the sea.

The museum was burnt down and restored.  Walking through these historic buildings, I gained a deeper appreciation of how the spice trade shaped Jakarta's development and Indonesia's place in global history. Visiting both Syahbandar Tower and the Maritime Museum is highly recommended for anyone interested in history, architecture, or maritime culture. 

They are two hidden gems that tell the remarkable story of Jakarta's origins as one of Southeast Asia's greatest port cities.