Discovering Jakarta's Maritime Past: Syahbandar Tower and the Maritime Museum

 Jakarta - One of the most fascinating parts of my visit to Jakarta was exploring the historic Syahbandar Tower (Menara Syahbandar) and the nearby Maritime Museum (Museum Bahari), both located in the old harbour district of North Jakarta. Together, they offer a wonderful glimpse into Indonesia's rich maritime history and the colonial past of what was once known as Batavia.

Built in 1839 on the foundations of the former Dutch Bastion Culemborg, the 12-metre-high Syahbandar Tower served as an observation post for incoming ships sailing into the bustling Sunda Kelapa Port. 

It was also regarded as Batavia's original zero-kilometre point, from which distances were measured throughout the city. Interestingly, due to the gradual settling of its foundation over nearly two centuries, the tower now leans slightly, earning it the affectionate nickname "Jakarta's Leaning Tower."

I climbed the tower's three levels via its narrow wooden staircase. At the top, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the old harbour, where traditional Pinisi wooden schooners continue to load and unload cargo much as they have for generations. Looking out across the harbour, it was easy to imagine Dutch merchant ships arriving centuries ago, bringing spices and goods from across the Indonesian archipelago.

Just a short walk from the tower is the Maritime Museum (Museum Bahari). The museum occupies a series of beautifully restored 17th-century warehouses that once belonged to the powerful Dutch East India Company (VOC). 

These warehouses stored valuable spices such as cloves, nutmeg, pepper, coffee, and tea before they were shipped to Europe, making Batavia one of the world's most important trading ports during the colonial era.

Inside, the museum showcases Indonesia's remarkable maritime heritage through exhibits on traditional boats, navigation equipment, historical maps, naval history, and the country's centuries-old shipbuilding traditions. The displays highlight Indonesia's identity as the world's largest archipelago, with over 17,000 islands connected by the sea.

The museum was burnt down and restored.  Walking through these historic buildings, I gained a deeper appreciation of how the spice trade shaped Jakarta's development and Indonesia's place in global history. Visiting both Syahbandar Tower and the Maritime Museum is highly recommended for anyone interested in history, architecture, or maritime culture. 

They are two hidden gems that tell the remarkable story of Jakarta's origins as one of Southeast Asia's greatest port cities.

Exploring Indonesia's Rich Heritage at the National Museum of Indonesia

Jakarta - One of the highlights of my recent visit to Jakarta was spending a few hours exploring the National Museum of Indonesia, one of the country's oldest and most important museums. Often affectionately referred to as the "Elephant Museum" because of the bronze elephant statue presented by King Chulalongkorn of Thailand in 1871, the museum houses an extraordinary collection of artefacts spanning thousands of years of Indonesian history.

Recently renovated with modern interactive displays, the museum offers visitors a fascinating journey through Indonesia's diverse cultural, religious, and historical heritage. With over 190 million people spread across more than 17,000 islands, Indonesia's story is remarkably rich and complex.

The museum is organised across three main exhibition floors, each focusing on a different period of the nation's history.

The ground floor introduces visitors to the early history of Indonesia. Here, I explored exhibits showcasing prehistoric life, ancient kingdoms, archaeological discoveries, and the migration of early civilizations across the Indonesian archipelago. Beautiful stone sculptures, ancient inscriptions, pottery, and traditional artefacts illustrated how Indonesia evolved from prehistoric settlements into powerful Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms such as Srivijaya and Majapahit. It was fascinating to see how trade, culture, and religion shaped the early identity of the region.

Moving up to the second floor, the focus shifts to Indonesian Islamic civilisation. Islam arrived in the archipelago through merchants and scholars centuries ago and gradually became the dominant religion. The exhibits explained how Islamic traditions blended harmoniously with existing local cultures, creating the unique Indonesian Islamic identity that exists today. Beautiful manuscripts, Qur'ans, traditional clothing, ceremonial objects, and historical artefacts demonstrated the rich artistic and cultural contributions of Islamic civilisation throughout Indonesia's history.

The third floor, titled "Fearless Defiance," was perhaps the most emotionally powerful section of the museum. It tells the inspiring story of Indonesia's struggle against colonial rule and the long journey towards independence. Through photographs, personal accounts, historical documents, multimedia presentations, and artefacts, visitors gain a deeper appreciation of the sacrifices made by countless Indonesians in their fight for freedom. The exhibits highlight the courage, resilience, and determination that ultimately led to Indonesia proclaiming its independence in 1945.

What impressed me most about the museum was its modern presentation. Interactive displays, excellent lighting, multilingual information panels, and thoughtfully curated exhibits made learning both engaging and accessible. Rather than simply displaying artefacts behind glass, the museum tells the story of Indonesia through immersive experiences that connect history with culture and national identity.

After spending several hours exploring the galleries, I left with a much greater appreciation of Indonesia's remarkable journey, from its ancient civilizations and diverse cultural influences to its emergence as the world's fourth most populous nation.

For anyone visiting Jakarta, I highly recommend setting aside at least half a day to visit the National Museum of Indonesia. Whether you are interested in archaeology, history, religion, or culture, the museum offers an enriching experience that provides valuable context to understanding this fascinating nation. It is far more than a collection of artefacts—it is a journey through the soul of Indonesia.

Jakarta Cathedral

Jakarta - This afternoon, I made a quiet and reflective visit to the Jakarta Cathedral, one of the most striking landmarks in the heart of Indonesia’s bustling capital. Stepping into this magnificent Gothic Revival church felt like walking into another world — one far removed from the traffic, noise, and constant movement just outside its gates. Despite being a weekday, the cathedral was gently alive with a number of worshippers, each deep in prayer, adding to the serene and contemplative atmosphere.

Officially named Gereja Santa Perawan Maria Diangkat ke Surga (The Church of Our Lady of Assumption), the cathedral stands directly opposite the Istiqlal Mosque, forming a powerful symbol of Indonesia’s commitment to interfaith harmony. Its towering spires, intricate architectural details, and historic presence make it one of the most beautiful and important churches in the country.

The moment I walked through the main doors, I was struck by the grandeur of the interior. The high vaulted ceilings, supported by dark, slender columns, drew my eyes upward, giving the hall a sense of weightlessness despite its large scale. Sunlight streamed in through the stained glass windows, casting soft blue and amber glows onto the wooden pews. These windows, rich with biblical imagery, are among the cathedral’s most treasured features — each panel telling a different story, intricately crafted with deep symbolism.

The cathedral was originally completed in 1901, and its European-inspired design is evident everywhere: ornate altars, decorative carvings, and statues that bring a sense of timelessness. Yet, what makes the Jakarta Cathedral unique is how it blends this Western Gothic heritage with a distinctly Indonesian warmth. The polished teak wood, the soft echoes of prayer, and the gentle movement of people lighting candles combined to create a sacred space that feels both grand and intimate.

As I walked slowly along the aisles, I noticed several worshippers on their knees, heads bowed in deep devotion. Some sat quietly in the pews, rosaries in hand. Others paused in front of the side chapels, especially the Chapel of Mary, leaving flowers and whispering personal intentions. It was moving to witness such quiet faith on a weekday afternoon — a reminder that spirituality continues quietly, even in the busiest urban centers.

As I stepped outside once more, the late afternoon sun had begun to soften. The view of the cathedral’s twin spires silhouetted against the sky left a lasting impression. My visit had started as a simple stop, but it became a meditative experience — a reminder of the beauty of sacred spaces and the quiet moments of peace they offer amid the rush of daily life.

Jakarta Cathedral is more than a historic building; it is a living, breathing place of faith. And this afternoon, it offered me a moment of stillness I didn’t know I was looking for.

Monas - National Monument of Indonesia

Jakarta -  Jakarta is a city that never really stops moving—its streets buzzing with life, its skyline constantly growing taller, and its history deeply embedded in every corner. During my recent morning in the Indonesian capital, I decided to visit one of its most iconic landmarks: Monumen Nasional, more popularly known as Monas.

Towering at 132 meters in the heart of Merdeka Square, Monas is not just a monument but a symbol of Indonesia’s struggle for independence. For many, it is the nation’s pride, standing tall with its golden flame on top. For me, it was a chance to see Jakarta from a new perspective, quite literally. My morning here was filled with a mix of history, culture, and panoramic views that offered both reflection and wonder.

As I got closer, the scale of the monument became clearer. It is simple yet majestic, a towering obelisk that draws your eyes upwards. The monument was commissioned by President Sukarno in the early 1960s and finally completed in 1975. Every Indonesian student grows up learning about Monas as a national symbol, and seeing it in person gave me a sense of the country’s resilience and pride.

After I paid the entrance fee, I entered the huge hall which is their museum.  The museum showcases dioramas that tell the story of the country’s struggle for independence, from the early kingdoms and Dutch colonial period to the Japanese occupation and finally the proclamation of independence in 1945. Each diorama is carefully crafted, almost like a frozen moment in time.

Pledge of Independence

The Slow Lift Ride to the Top

One of the highlights of visiting Monas is, of course, the viewing gallery at the top. Accessing it involves taking a single lift up the core of the tower. What struck me was how slow the lift was. Unlike modern high-speed elevators in skyscrapers, this one felt like a deliberate, almost ceremonial journey upwards.

At first, I was impatient, but as the seconds ticked by, I realised the slow pace added to the anticipation. It gave me time to imagine what the view might be like once the doors opened. Finally, after what felt like several long minutes, the lift reached its destination.

The 4 views from the top.  The city stretched endlessly in every direction—tall office towers, clusters of residential buildings, winding roads filled with traffic, and patches of green parks breaking up the urban sprawl.

To the north, I could see the outlines of the old city and beyond it, the faint line of the Java Sea shimmering in the distance. To the south, Jakarta’s modern skyscrapers stood proudly, each one representing the city’s rapid growth. Looking down, Merdeka Square formed a massive green carpet around the monument, a refreshing contrast to the dense urban jungle outside.

The view was both impressive and humbling. Jakarta is a city of contrasts with old and new, tradition and modernity, all coexisting in one dynamic metropolis. From this vantage point, I could almost feel the pulse of the city, a reminder of why Monas was built as a unifying symbol.

A Lunch at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis: History, Art, and a Feast of Flavours

 Jakarta - Jakarta is a city where history often hides in plain sight, tucked behind the chaotic rush of traffic and the modern skyline. Yet sometimes, you stumble into a place that feels like stepping back in time. My recent lunch at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, located in the leafy Menteng neighbourhood, was one such moment. More than just a restaurant, it is a place where the colonial past, art, and cuisine converge in a magnificent setting.

A Building with a Story

The Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is not your ordinary dining venue. Originally built in 1914, this stately Dutch colonial building once served as the Fine Arts Circle of the Dutch East Indies. For decades, it was a hub of cultural life, a gathering place for intellectuals, artists, and colonial elites. Its name “Kunstkring” translates to “Art Circle,” a reminder of its original function as a gallery and art society.

After my lunch, the waiter that serve me took me around the building, explain the art and took nice photos of me.  It was such an interesting experience.

Walking through its grand entrance, I immediately felt the weight of history. High ceilings, colonial-era architecture, and intricately decorated halls exude a sense of grandeur that is rare in modern Jakarta. Yet the building is not a museum frozen in time. Today, it is lovingly curated by Tugu Hotels & Restaurants, who have transformed it into a space that honors its past while serving as a vibrant hub for dining, art, and cultural events.

While the building and its history were fascinating, the true highlight of my visit was, of course, the food. For lunch, I ordered the beef rendang, served with red rice.

Rendang, originally from West Sumatra, is often hailed as one of the world’s most delicious dishes, and the version I tasted here fully lived up to its reputation. The beef was incredibly tender, slow-cooked until it practically melted in my mouth. The spices — a complex blend of chili, lemongrass, galangal, garlic, ginger, and coconut milk — were perfectly balanced, creating layers of flavor that lingered long after each bite.

What made the dish even more special was the pairing with red rice, a healthier and more earthy alternative to white rice. Its nutty flavor complemented the richness of the rendang beautifully, giving the meal a wholesome, almost rustic dimension.

Beef Rendang

For dessert, I opted for something uniquely local yet creatively presented: kue pancong ice cream. Kue pancong is a traditional coconut cake from Jakarta, usually grilled and served warm. Here, it was reinvented as a modern dessert — served with coconut ice cream that added a refreshing, creamy sweetness. It was the perfect ending to an already memorable meal: familiar yet innovative, rooted in tradition yet playful in execution.

Kue Pancong ice cream

The Suzie Wong Room: An Ode to a Cultural Icon

Among the many intriguing spaces inside the building, one that caught my attention was the Suzie Wong Room. Named after the fictional character from Richard Mason’s 1957 novel The World of Suzie Wong (later adapted into a Hollywood film), this room embodies a mix of nostalgia, romance, and intrigue.

Suzie Wong, the story of a Hong Kong bar girl who falls in love with an English artist, became an icon of mid-20th-century East–West fascination. To the Western imagination, Suzie Wong symbolized a kind of exotic allure and mystery, while for Asian audiences, she represented both fascination and controversy.

At Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, the Suzie Wong Room is not meant to replicate Hong Kong nightlife but rather to capture the spirit of cross-cultural fascination. The owners of Tugu have long been drawn to characters and narratives that embody East–West encounters, and Suzie Wong fits perfectly into that tapestry. The room is adorned with vintage décor, romantic lighting, and artwork that pays tribute to her legend. Dining there felt like being part of a story — one that straddles continents, cultures, and histories.

The Grand Rijsttafel

One of the most fascinating culinary traditions highlighted at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is the Grand Rijsttafel. Literally translated from Dutch as “rice table,” rijsttafel is a dining experience that was born during the colonial era in Indonesia.

The concept emerged in the early 20th century when Dutch colonials, eager to impress visiting dignitaries and guests, created a banquet-style meal showcasing the diversity of the archipelago’s cuisines. Instead of serving one or two dishes, the rijsttafel could feature dozens of small plates, each highlighting a different region’s specialties — from spicy Sumatran curries to Javanese stews, Balinese satays, and Sulawesi seafood dishes.

At Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, the Grand Rijsttafel is more than just a meal; it is a cultural performance. Waiters dressed in traditional attire serve an elaborate array of dishes, often accompanied by music and storytelling. It is a living reminder of Indonesia’s culinary richness, while also echoing the complexities of its colonial past.

Dining at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is not just about the food — it is about the experience. Every element, from the architecture to the artwork, from the themed rooms to the cultural performances, is designed to immerse you in a story.

It is an experience that makes you pause and reflect on the layers of Jakarta’s identity: colonial legacies, cultural crossroads, and the enduring richness of Indonesian traditions. In a city where much of the past is overshadowed by rapid modernisation, places like Tugu Kunstkring Paleis serve as living reminders that history can be preserved not just in books and museums but also in food, art, and spaces where people gather.

My lunch at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis was one of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had in Jakarta. Set in a magnificent Dutch colonial building filled with art and history, the restaurant offers much more than food. It offers a journey into the past, a celebration of Indonesia’s culinary traditions, and a platform for cultural storytelling.