Day 1 - Holiday trip bound for Bintan

Bintan - We began the journey with a Grab ride to Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal in Singapore. It’s a familiar departure point for those who regularly travel to Batam, Bintan, or even Johor. The drive was smooth, and the energy at the terminal was relaxed but organised.

There’s something comforting about ferry terminals—the mix of tourists with backpacks, locals heading home, and families reuniting over weekend getaways. With our passports ready and tickets in hand, we boarded the ferry bound for Tanjung Pinang, the capital of Bintan Island.   

I chose a clean and good hotel near the Tanjung Pinang jetty and also walking distance to food.  We arrived in Tanjung Pinang, the main city and administrative center of Bintan. While it’s technically a city, it has the soul of a sleepy town.  

The ferry ride of 2hrs away from Singapore is a popular choice of travelers as it is both affordable and convenient. It is also accessible by plane, with domestic direct flights from Jakarta, Surabaya, and major cities in Indonesia.   

The economy of Bintan is centred on tourism, given its close proximity to regional hubs such as Singapore,   Bintan's land area is 1,173 square kilometres (much bigger than Singapore) with a population of 400,000 local residents.

After checking in, we walked to the nearest mall Bintan Indah Mall and it was old and dilapidated.   The mall is semi abandoned with about 70% empty and vacant occupancy.   

Lunch at Seafood Kelong restaurant

Pax found this seafood restaurant on google but finding this jem was not easy - eventually, we stumbled upon a narrow path leading to a wooden platform, and there it was—the kelong restaurant.   

A kelong is a traditional offshore fishing platform. Built from wooden stilts and planks, kelongs are usually situated over the sea and serve both as fishing structures and seafood restaurants.

Many kelongs are owned by local fishing families who serve up the catch of the day—fresh, simple, and deeply flavorful. Dining on a kelong means sitting over the water, hearing waves lapping beneath your feet, and often seeing fish farms nearby.

As we settled into our wooden table, a warm breeze swept through the open-air dining area. The decor was modest—plastic chairs, mismatched tables—but the view made up for everything. We were seated over the sea, surrounded by nothing but open sky and water.

We placed our order:

Prawns Omelet – Fresh prawns folded into a fluffy egg, lightly browned and seasoned.  

Stir-Fried Kai Lan – Crunchy, garlicky, and beautifully green.

Fried Sotong (Squid) – Crisp on the outside, tender inside, served with a sweet chili dip.

Fried Chicken – Golden, dry, and not so delicious.  

Dinner at Jalan Potong Lembu

This is a renowned open-air hawker center in Tanjung Pinang. By day, this spot serves as a parking lot, but come evening, it transforms into a bustling night market teeming with local flavours and vibrant energy.  This lively hawker center, located just a short drive from the heart of town, becomes a buzzing culinary destination, where smoky grills fire up, woks sizzle, and locals and visitors alike gather to indulge in the best of Bintan’s street food.

The first thing we ordered—and arguably the highlight of the night—was satay.

Each satay portion consisted of 10 sticks, priced at a very reasonable Rp 25,000 (less than SGD 3). We couldn’t resist and ended up ordering three plates—30 sticks in total.

The skewers arrived hot off the grill, slightly charred, glistening with marinade and smoke. The satay was served with traditional ketupat (compressed rice cakes wrapped in woven palm leaf), slices of fresh cucumber, and a generous bowl of peanut sauce.

The meat was juicy, tender, and flavourful—clearly marinated with care. Dipping it into the rich, slightly spicy peanut sauce elevated each bite to new heights. The ketupat added a soft, neutral texture that soaked up the sauce beautifully, while the cucumbers provided a refreshing crunch to balance out the richness.

We ate quickly, savouring each mouthful—and yes, 30 sticks was just the right amount for our hungry group.

This dish came sizzling on a hot plate, filled with briny oysters nestled in a soft egg batter. Crispy on the edges and creamy in the middle, it was a beautiful balance of textures. The egg was infused with garlic and green onions, and a drizzle of chili sauce added a mild kick.  The oysters was not as tasty as expected with a tinge of sour.

Stir fried Kai Lan

Wanting something green on the table, we added a serving of stir-fried kai lan. Simple yet satisfying, it was cooked with garlic and just the right amount of soy, keeping the vegetables vibrant and crunchy. It gave a nice contrast to the heavier dishes and helped refresh our palates in between bites of satay and noodles.

Black pepper crabs

Black pepper crabs—a messy, spicy, and absolutely indulgent delight. The crabs were medium sized, with shells cracked just enough to make digging in easy. The black pepper sauce was bold and slightly sweet, clinging to the shell and meat.

The stall even provided plastic gloves.  We tore into them with our hands, licking our fingers and letting the spice linger. It was the kind of dish that demands your full attention—and rewards you with incredible flavour.

Char Kway Teow

Next came a hearty plate of char kway teow, the beloved stir-fried flat noodle dish. It was smoky, packed with wok hei (the “breath of the wok”), and came loaded with prawns, egg, bean sprouts, and dark soy sauce. While it had a slightly sweeter Indonesian twist compared to the Singaporean version, it still delivered comfort in every bite.

Deep Fried Bananas

For a quick sweet treat in between savoury bites, we ordered deep-fried bananas—a local favourite. Crispy on the outside, gooey and naturally sweet inside, they were the perfect palate cleanser. Lightly dusted with sugar and served piping hot.

Hai Kah Lang: Seafood Delights with Edward and Donny - Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant

Kuala Lumpur - On my recent trip to Kuala Lumpur, my good friends Edward, Donny, and I had the pleasure of dining at Hai Kah Lang, a renowned seafood noodle restaurant that has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition .  This eatery is celebrated for its fresh seafood offerings and flavourful broths.

Ambiance and First Impressions

Hai Kah Lang boasts a clean and well-organised setting, making it an ideal spot for both solo diners and groups. Despite its popularity, the efficient service ensures that customers are seated and served promptly, even during peak hours

Our Seafood Feast

Eager to sample a variety of dishes, we ordered several of Hai Kah Lang's specialties:

• Fried Fish Cake: This dish stood out with its crispy exterior and tender, flavourful interior. The fish cake's aroma was enticing, and it paired wonderfully with the restaurant's homemade sambal, adding a spicy kick to each bite .

• Special Fish Soup: The clear broth was a highlight of my meal. Despite its light appearance, the soup was rich in flavour, thanks to a base made from fish bones and a touch of yellow wine. The subtle addition of garlic oil enhanced the taste without overpowering the natural sweetness of the seafood.  Lots of seafood from clams, prawns, cuttlefish and fish meat.

• Cockles: Fresh and succulent, the cockles were a delightful addition to our spread. Their briny flavour complemented the other dishes perfectly.  I hesitated at first but it looks too tempting to miss and it was fresh and delicious.

• Jellyfish: Served cold, the jellyfish had a pleasant crunch and was seasoned lightly, allowing its natural texture to shine.  Lots of sesame seeds topped off this dish.

• Fish Lips: A unique delicacy, the fish lips were gelatinous and rich in collagen. They absorbed the flavors of the broth well, offering a melt-in-the-mouth experience.

Our visit to Hai Kah Lang was a memorable culinary experience. The combination of fresh seafood, expertly prepared dishes, and attentive service made for an enjoyable meal. For seafood enthusiasts visiting Kuala Lumpur, Hai Kah Lang is a must-visit destination.

Aliyaa - A Culinary Evening in Kuala Lumpur dinner with Donny - Michelin Bib Gourmand

Kuala Lumpur - Kuala Lumpur is a vibrant city known for its diverse culinary offerings. Among the many gastronomic gems is A Li Yaa, a Sri Lankan restaurant awarded the prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand, which honours establishments known for good quality and good value cooking. On a balmy evening, I had the pleasure of dining there with my good friend Donny, and what followed was a feast that delighted all the senses.

A Welcome Start: Egg Appam and Paal Appam

As we settled into the cozy ambiance of A Li Yaa, we decided to start our dinner with two quintessential Sri Lankan starters—Egg Appam and Paal Appam. The Egg Appam came with a soft-centered yolk cradled in the middle of a bowl-shaped pancake with lacy, crisp edges. The contrasting textures and the hint of peppery spice were invigorating. The Paal Appam, on the other hand, was delicate, slightly sweet, and had a rich coconut milk base that balanced the savoury edge of the Egg Appam. Both were a delicious start, offering a peek into the rich culinary traditions of Sri Lanka.

Paal Appam

Egg Appam

The Star of the Show: Crab Meat Jaffna

Next came what can only be described as the showstopper of the night—the Crab Meat Jaffna. This dish arrived in a thick, rich curry gravy bursting with flavor. The curry had layers of spice, hints of tamarind, and a velvety texture that clung to every morsel. Generous pieces of juicy crab meat were enveloped in the aromatic sauce. We eagerly soaked it up with warm, flaky Ceylon Roti, which acted as the perfect vessel for the delicious curry. Each bite was deeply satisfying and carried the essence of coastal Sri Lankan cuisine.

Crab Meat Jaffna

Ceylon Roti

The Complex Symphony of Kuliyal Lamb

Following the seafood indulgence, we were presented with the Kuliyal Lamb. This dish was a masterclass in umami. Cooked with a variety of spices and herbs, the lamb was incredibly tender and juicy. But the real magic lay in the presentation—the lamb came served with rice wrapped in a banana leaf, which infused the entire dish with a subtle earthy aroma. As we opened the parcel, a waft of fragrant steam greeted us, intensifying our anticipation. Each bite was a mosaic of flavors: spice, sweetness, earthiness, and the richness of well-cooked meat. It was hearty, comforting, and deeply satisfying.

Kuliyal Lamb

A Majestic Ending: Chef’s Style Tiger Prawns

Just when we thought we had tasted the best the night had to offer, our final dish arrived—Tiger Prawns, Chef’s Style. The prawns were colossal, each split into two to share between us. Beautifully grilled and served with a light, tangy sauce that complemented their natural sweetness, these prawns were firm yet tender, smoky yet fresh. There was a refined balance to the dish, one that spoke to the chef’s creativity and restraint. It was a grand finale, both in presentation and flavour.

Tiger Prawns Chef Style

Dining at A Li Yaa wasn't just about the food; it was a cultural immersion, a sensory journey into the heart of Sri Lanka. The flavours were bold, the ingredients fresh, and the dishes authentic yet thoughtfully refined. Whether it’s for a special occasion or a casual get-together with a good friend like Donny, A Li Yaa stands out as a culinary beacon in Kuala Lumpur.

Medan - Tjong A Fie mansion

 Medan - After a well-deserved rest, we checked out at 3 PM and began our journey to Medan, the capital of North Sumatra. The contrast between the cool, green landscapes of Berastagi and the bustling urban heat of Medan was striking. As soon as we arrived, we were met with the city’s scorching heat and infamous traffic jams.

In forests deep where giants grow,

A thorny treasure hides below.

Its scent will rise before it's seen,

A bold perfume, both rich and keen.

Some flee in fear, they hold their nose,

While others chase where your aroma goes.

You split with pride, no shy delight,

A creamy storm, both wrong and right.

A custard dream, a sulfur kiss,

To love or hate — no middle bliss.

The morning breath of jungle kings,

You stir up cravings, wild flings.

From stalls that dot the bustling street,

To quiet nights with friends to meet.

With hands all sticky, hearts aglow,

We sing your praises, sweet and slow.

So here’s to you, oh fruit so bold,

In spiky armour, bright and gold.

To every burp you boldly earn —

Dear durian, we always return.

We stopped at a durian store and had 3 durians - Rp 70,000 for the big size durian and 2 smaller durians at Rp 30,000 each.  

Exploring the Historic Tjong A Fie Mansion

After checking into our hotel and quickly unpacking, we set off to visit one of Medan’s most famous landmarks: the Tjong A Fie Mansion. This two-story grand mansion, once owned by Tjong A Fie, a wealthy Chinese businessman and former mayor of Medan, is a well-preserved symbol of Medan’s rich multicultural heritage.  Built in 1895, this mansion is now a museum and cultural heritage site.  Entrance fee: Rp 35000 (S$ 3)

Walking through the mansion felt like stepping back in time. The colonial and Chinese architectural fusion, intricate wooden carvings, and elegant furnishings reflected the wealth and influence of Tjong A Fie. The guided tour provided valuable insights into his contributions to Medan’s development, and the stories behind the artifacts made the experience all the more enriching.

When Tjong Nyie Mie was a little girl, she and her younger brother would play hide and seek in their palatial family mansion on the main drag in Medan – a cosmopolitan entrepot during Indonesia’s Dutch colonial era dubbed the “Paris of Sumatra”.

Nowadays, Tjong Nyie Mie (also known as Mimi Tjong) is the affable hostess of Tjong A Fie Mansion, which was opened to the public as a tourist attraction in 2009 and is named after her grandfather.

The original hand-painted ceilings, Tjong’s huge bedroom, imported dark-wood furniture inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl, interesting art pieces, an upstairs ballroom and Taoist temples all help to make it one of the most impressive historic buildings in town.

The Mansion has Chinese, Malay and Art Deco influences in its architecture style. The structure was built observing feng-shui principles. The rooms are on four sides of the structures and surround a big open-air courtyard in the middle, signifying the "Well of Heaven".

Next, we took a grab to Delipark Mall to have some good deserts.

Es Campur 

Hiking up an Active Volcano - Gunung Sibayak and hot spring

 Berastagi - Our journey from Berastagi to Medan was an unforgettable adventure, filled with early morning hikes, relaxing hot springs, cultural exploration, and delectable cuisine. From the refreshing highlands of Berastagi to the bustling cityscape of Medan, this trip had everything – nature, history, and a touch of indulgence.

Early Morning Ascent to Gunung Sibayak

The adventure began at the crack of dawn – or rather, before dawn. Edmund and I woke up at 3:30 AM, preparing for a sunrise trek up Gunung Sibayak, an active volcano near Berastagi. Our driver and guide arrived promptly at 4:00 AM, and we set off into the darkness, armed with our torchlights and excitement.

The hike took about an hour, and it was an eerie yet thrilling experience walking in near-complete darkness with only our torchlights illuminating the rugged path ahead.  The trail was steep and rocky, but the cool morning air made the ascent manageable.

By 5:30 AM, we reached the summit and were greeted with a breathtaking, albeit partially clouded, sunrise. The golden hues peeked through the thick mist, casting a magical glow over the vast volcanic landscape. Though the view wasn't entirely clear, the experience of watching the world wake up from such a height was awe-inspiring.

As we waited at the summit, we encountered two Batak dogs, friendly yet protective, who roamed the area. These dogs belonged to the local ranger who watched over the summit. They seemed to be well-accustomed to trekkers, occasionally sniffing around for food or simply enjoying the crisp mountain air.

After soaking in the view, we began our descent, making our way towards the geyser. As we approached, the unmistakable smell of sulfur filled the air – a telltale sign of geothermal activity. When walking down, I then realised how dangerous the climb was as we were walking at the edge of the mountain in pitch darkness with just a lamp in our hands.   

The ground beneath us was warm, and the steam rising from the vents gave the area a mystical feel. Seeing the raw power of nature up close was both humbling and fascinating.

Relaxing in the Hot Springs

From the geyser, we headed to the hot springs, a much-needed reward after our intense morning hike. The natural pools, fed by geothermal heat, were warm and soothing, perfect for relaxing our tired muscles. We spent about an hour soaking in the mineral-rich waters, letting the warmth ease away any lingering fatigue from the climb.

Feeling completely refreshed, we made our way back to our hotel, arriving at 9:20 AM – just in time for breakfast before it closed at 10 AM. The meal was hearty and satisfying, a perfect end to our morning adventure.