Dapur Solo Restaurant, Botani Square Bogor

Bogor - I decided to have lunch at Dapur Solo, a well-known Indonesian restaurant chain, at Botani Square Mall. It turned out to be a satisfying culinary experience that combined comfort, tradition, and just the right amount of indulgence.  It was just a walking distance from my hotel.

Botani Square Bogor – A Modern Mall in the Heart of the City

Botani Square is one of the most popular malls in Bogor, conveniently located along Jalan Pajajaran, not far from the iconic Bogor Botanical Gardens. As a modern shopping destination, it has become a gathering place for locals and tourists alike, offering a mix of fashion outlets, supermarkets, lifestyle stores, and a wide variety of restaurants. On weekends especially, the mall is bustling with families enjoying a day out, couples strolling from shop to shop, and students hanging out at the many cafés.

For me, the mall was the perfect stop after a morning of sightseeing. With its cool air-conditioning and diverse food choices, Botani Square offered a welcome break from Bogor’s busy streets. Among the many dining options, I chose Dapur Solo, eager to enjoy some traditional Indonesian dishes.

The story of Dapur Solo is a fascinating one. What began as a small home business founded by Hj. Swan Kumarga in the 1980s has since grown into one of Indonesia’s most respected restaurant chains specialising in authentic Solo cuisine. The founder’s vision was simple yet powerful: to introduce the rich culinary heritage of Solo (Surakarta), Central Java, to a wider audience, while keeping the flavours true to tradition.

I decided to try the sop buntut (oxtail soup), one of Indonesia’s most beloved dishes. From the very first sip, I could tell it was prepared with care. The broth was fragrant, infused with a blend of spices that gave it both depth and warmth. The oxtail itself was incredibly tender, the kind of meat that falls off the bone with little effort.

What made the soup truly addictive was its balance, it wasn’t overly heavy, yet it was rich enough to make you savour every spoonful. I found myself finishing the entire bowl, enjoying the way the spices lingered on the palate. Sop buntut at Dapur Solo is definitely a dish I would return for.

The second dish I ordered was gado-gado lontong, my favourite Indonesian dish that never disappoints. Gado-gado is essentially a mixed vegetable salad topped with a creamy peanut sauce, and the lontong (compressed rice cakes) makes it more filling.

The peanut sauce at Dapur Solo was especially good; smooth, nutty, and just the right balance of sweet and savoury. It coated the vegetables and lontong perfectly, elevating the dish into something far more satisfying than a simple salad. Every bite was fresh yet hearty.

Walk Through Suryakencana Street Market

 Bogor - From the moment I arrived, I was swept up by the energy. The street was packed—vendors arranging their goods, locals queuing for breakfast and the irresistible aroma of sizzling dishes filling the air. Suryakencana is not a quiet street; it thrives on noise, colour, and movement. Everywhere you turn, there is vegetables and fruits being sold, chicken and fishmongers hawking their produce and the whole place was chaotic.  

Breakfast at a Bakso Mie Stall

For breakfast, I stopped at a modest bakso mie stall. The crowd around it was enough to tell me I was in the right place. Bakso mie is a beloved Indonesian dish that combines bakso (meatballs) with mie (noodles), often served in a rich broth with vegetables, tofu, and sometimes fried dumplings.

Bakso Mie

The bakso itself was flavourful.  The meatballs were firm yet tender, made from a mixture of beef and tapioca flour that gave it that signature springy bite. The noodles were simple but satisfying, soaking up the savoury broth perfectly. Sitting on a wooded stool, I felt completely immersed in the local rhythm of life. 

The Historical Significance of Suryakencana

Suryakencana is more than just a food street; it is also a place steeped in history. Bogor’s Chinatown dates back to the Dutch colonial period, when Chinese traders and settlers played a vital role in the city’s economy. Over the centuries, this area became a hub for commerce, religion, and cultural exchange.

Even today, you can still see traces of its heritage. Traditional Chinese shophouses line the street, many with faded yet beautiful architectural details. Temples and shrines add a spiritual layer to the neighbourhood, standing as reminders of Bogor’s multicultural roots. Walking through Suryakencana feels like stepping into a living archive of Bogor’s past, where the stories of migration, resilience, and cultural blending continue to unfold.

Bogor Zoology Museum

Bogor - After a long, refreshing walk around the lush Bogor Botanical Gardens, I ended my day at the Bogor Zoology Museum, a fascinating space filled with stories of science, colonial history, and Indonesia’s incredible biodiversity.  

The Bogor Zoology Museum, or Museum Zoologi Bogor, is located just beside the main entrance of the Botanical Gardens, making it an easy last stop after exploring the greenery. The museum has an illustrious history that dates back to 1894, when it was founded during the Dutch East Indies colonial era.

It was Dr. J.C. Koningsberger, a Dutch botanist and zoologist, who first established the museum in August of that year. Originally, it began as a small laboratory in the corner of the Botanical Gardens—then called Lands Plantentuin. Over time, it grew in both size and importance, becoming a center for zoological research in Southeast Asia. Today, it covers 1,500 square meters and houses one of the most extensive collections of fauna specimens in Asia.

Walking through the museum, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of how knowledge and curiosity bridged centuries.  It started as a colonial laboratory has now become an invaluable educational and cultural treasure for Indonesia.

Inside the Collections

The Bogor Zoology Museum is divided into 24 rooms, all carefully maintained at 22 degrees Celsius to preserve its delicate specimens. The range of collections is nothing short of impressive:

• Insects: Over 12,000 species and 2.58 million specimens, neatly displayed in glass cases. From colorful butterflies to beetles, the sheer diversity is astonishing.

• Mammals: Around 650 species with 30,000 specimens, ranging from small rodents to larger animals that showcase Indonesia’s diverse habitats.

• Poultry (Birds): About 1,000 species and 30,762 specimens, reflecting the archipelago’s reputation as a birdwatcher’s paradise.

• Reptiles and Amphibians: 763 species and nearly 20,000 specimens, including snakes, lizards, and frogs that represent the tropical rainforests.

• Mollusks: Nearly 13,146 specimens of shells and other sea creatures.

• Invertebrates: More than 15,558 specimens, capturing the often-overlooked diversity of marine and terrestrial life.

The most breathtaking exhibit, however, is the blue whale skeleton. Stretched across the hall, this massive skeleton is the largest of its kind in Indonesia. Standing before it, I felt both humbled and awed, it was a stark reminder of the grandeur of life beneath the ocean’s surface.

A Morning Walk Through Bogor Botanical Gardens: History, Beauty, and Hidden Stories

Bogor - Nestled in the heart of Bogor, West Java, lies one of Indonesia’s oldest and most iconic green sanctuaries — the Bogor Botanical Gardens (Kebun Raya Bogor). Known for its sprawling 87 hectares of curated greenery, colonial heritage, and scientific importance, the gardens have stood for over two centuries as both a living museum and a place of retreat for locals and visitors alike. On my recent morning walk through this national treasure, I was reminded not only of its natural beauty but also its historical depth and the quiet stories that unfold as one wanders through its grounds.

Finding the Entrance: A Walk Before the Walk

Staying at a hotel near the western side of the gardens, I expected a straightforward entrance. But as I learned, there is only one main entrance into the Botanical Gardens, and unfortunately, the hotel’s front desk was not familiar with the details. While the West Gate was physically closer, it was closed to public entry, and so I had to walk nearly 10 minutes further around to reach the official entrance.  There were many people running or walking the perimeter of the Botanical Gardens.  There is a Rp 15,000 entrance fee.

Though slightly inconvenient, this extra walk had its charm — it gave me a chance to see the bustling streets surrounding Bogor’s most famous landmark. 

First Stop: Istana Bogor (Bogor Presidential Palace)

Once inside, the first landmark that immediately captures attention is the Istana Bogor — the Bogor Presidential Palace. This elegant white building, with its classical European architectural influence and sprawling lawns, is one of six presidential palaces in Indonesia.

As a visitor, I was only allowed to admire it from the outside and take photographs. Still, even from a distance, the palace exudes a sense of grandeur and calm. Originally built in the mid-18th century as the residence of the Dutch Governor-General, it later became one of the favourite retreats of Indonesian presidents. Its white pillars, long corridors, and serene surroundings reflect both history and power. 

The Bamboo Forest

From the palace, I continued my walk toward the Bamboo Forest, a tranquil area that feels like stepping into nature’s cathedral. Towering bamboo stalks arched overhead, their rustling leaves whispering in the breeze. The light filtering through the thick clusters created an almost spiritual ambiance — cool, quiet, and grounding.

This area reminded me of similar bamboo groves in Asia, yet it carried a distinctly Indonesian character. It was easy to imagine why such spaces are often considered sacred and calming. Walking under the shade of these living pillars was one of the most peaceful moments of my morning.

A short walk away, I came across one of the gardens’ more unexpected landmarks — the Dutch cemetery. Dating back to colonial times, this cemetery holds the remains of Dutch officials, scientists, and their families who once lived and worked in Bogor.

Though modest in size, the weathered tombstones stood as silent reminders of the layered history embedded in these gardens. Surrounded by greenery, the cemetery felt less eerie and more like a quiet archive of lives intertwined with the history of Bogor and Indonesia’s botanical legacy.

Walking across the Botanical Gardens is no small task. Covering nearly 87 hectares, it can feel like a journey across an open-air museum. The paths are long and winding, shaded by massive trees that are themselves centuries old.

While the gardens offer many picturesque corners, they are also showing signs of age. Wooden panels and benches in some areas were rusting or broken, suggesting that the site could benefit from major renovation and upkeep. Despite these shortcomings, the gardens still exude a timeless charm, the kind of place where history, nature, and culture blend seamlessly.

Teijsmann Garden: A Tribute to a Pioneer

Further along, I reached the Teijsmann Garden, a section named after Johannes Elias Teijsmann, the Dutch botanist who served as curator of the gardens for more than 50 years in the 19th century. Under his leadership, the Bogor Botanical Gardens expanded their scientific research and introduced numerous plant species from across the Indonesian archipelago and beyond.

The Teijsmann Garden serves as both a memorial and a celebration of the role he played in making Kebun Raya Bogor a world-class botanical center. Walking through it, I felt a sense of gratitude for the dedication of early botanists who preserved, studied, and expanded Indonesia’s rich plant diversity.

Cactus Park: A Desert in the Tropics

Among the more surprising features of the gardens is the Cactus Park, which showcases a variety of cacti from around the world. Standing amid Bogor’s cool and humid climate, the sight of desert plants was striking.

The collection, though modest, highlighted the global connections of the gardens, emphasising their role not just as a local retreat but as part of a broader international network of botanical study.

Sir Stamford Raffles’ Wife Memorial

Perhaps the most poignant moment of my walk came when I stumbled upon the memorial of Lady Olivia Marianne Raffles, the first wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, who served as the British Lieutenant-Governor of Java. Lady Olivia died in Bogor in 1814, and her memorial stands within the gardens as a quiet testament to love, loss, and colonial history.

Simple yet elegant, the memorial brought a human touch to the grand narratives of empire and botany. Standing before it, I felt connected not just to the history of the gardens but also to the deeply personal stories embedded within its landscape.

My morning walk through Bogor Botanical Gardens was both inspiring and thought-provoking. The gardens are undeniably beautiful — filled with towering trees, tranquil groves, and historic landmarks that tell stories of colonial ambition, scientific discovery, and personal lives. The Istana Bogor, the Bamboo Forest, the Dutch cemetery, the Teijsmann Garden, the Cactus Park, and the Raffles memorial each added a unique layer to the experience.

Dinner at Kafe Betawai @ Bogor

Bogor -  I walked to a nearby mall called Botani Square Bogor and had my dinner at Kafe Betawi, a well-loved chain of restaurants that pays homage to the rich flavours of Betawi cuisine—the food of Jakarta’s native people.  

Founded in the 1990s, Kafe Betawi has grown into a household name in Jakarta’s dining landscape. The restaurant’s mission is simple yet profound: to preserve and present authentic Betawi flavors in a clean, comfortable, and accessible environment. With many branches across the country, Kafe Betawi has become a go-to spot for both locals and visitors seeking a taste of traditional Jakarta cuisine without having to hunt for hidden warungs or street stalls.

Soto Ayam: A Comforting Start

Soto Ayam

For my main dish, I ordered Soto Ayam, one of Indonesia’s most beloved comfort foods. Soto ayam is a fragrant chicken soup, made with a turmeric-based broth that gives it its signature golden color. The broth is infused with spices like lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, and galangal, creating a rich, aromatic flavor that instantly warms you up.

Kafe Betawi’s version was delightful. The soup was served steaming hot, with tender shredded chicken, vermicelli noodles, boiled egg, and a sprinkling of fried shallots on top. A wedge of lime on the side added a refreshing tang when squeezed into the bowl. Every spoonful was savoury, hearty, and satisfying—the kind of dish that makes you slow down and savor the moment.

Sate Kambing: Smoky and Flavourful

Next, I tried the Sate Kambing, or mutton satay. Satay is one of Indonesia’s most famous dishes, but sate kambing is a unique variation that showcases the rich, tender and without the gamey flavour of mutton.

The skewers were grilled to perfection, slightly charred on the outside while remaining tender and juicy inside. The meat carried a smoky aroma that paired beautifully with the rich peanut sauce, which was thick, nutty, and slightly sweet. Each bite was a burst of flavours.  It was savoury, smoky, and just a little indulgent. Together, the satay and sauce created a harmony that was absolutely mouth-watering.

Tape Bakar: A Sweet Ending

Grilled fermented tapioca 

To finish off the meal, I had Tape Bakar, a traditional dessert made from fermented cassava. The cassava is grilled until slightly caramelised on the outside, which brings out its natural sweetness, while the fermentation process gives it a unique tangy flavour.

At Kafe Betawi, the tape bakar was served warm, soft on the inside with a lightly crisped surface. The taste was complex—sweet, tangy, and earthy all at once. It was simple but delicious, a perfect way to end the meal on a distinctly Indonesian note.  I ate this without the added sugars which normally comes with sweetened milk like condensed milk.

It was nice and simple Indonesian dinner for me.....

Marco - exquisite Peranakan Padang dining experience

Jakarta - Padang cuisine is one of Indonesia’s most beloved culinary traditions. Few places strike a balance between authenticity, creativity, and refinement quite like Marco Padang Restaurant. Helmed by Chef Marco Lim, this restaurant elevates West Sumatran flavours to a level that appeals not only to purists but also to modern diners seeking a more refined experience.

I recently had the pleasure of dining there with my friend Mario, and what unfolded was more than just a meal; it was a journey through the rich culinary heritage of Padang, delivered with Chef Marco’s personal flair.

Chef Marco, born and raised in West Sumatra, carries with him the deep culinary heritage of the Minangkabau people. Padang food is famous across Indonesia and beyond, celebrated for its fiery spices, coconut-rich curries, and tender beef dishes that seem to melt in your mouth. It is cuisine rooted in community and tradition, often served banquet-style where a wide array of dishes are laid out to be enjoyed together.

The Dishes We Tried

Our culinary journey began with Nasi Sayo, one of Marco Padang’s signature offerings. This dish is essentially a complete Padang meal served on a single plate; steamed rice accompanied by an assortment of vegetables, sambal, and side dishes. It embodies the spirit of Padang food: communal, hearty, and packed with flavour. The vegetables were fresh and vibrant, providing a nice balance to the bolder, spicier elements on the plate.

Next came the Nasi Goreng Rendang, which immediately caught my attention. Rendang, arguably Indonesia’s most famous dish, is traditionally a slow-cooked beef stew infused with coconut milk and a medley of spices until the meat is tender and deeply flavoured. Here, Chef Marco has taken that beloved rendang and transformed it into a fried rice dish. The result was nothing short of extraordinary—the smokiness of the fried rice carried the richness of rendang spices beautifully. Each spoonful was fragrant and satisfying, with bits of tender beef interspersed to keep every bite exciting.

The highlight for both Mario and me was the Dendeng Batokok Lado Ijo. This dish, often referred to as smashed beef jerky with green chili sambal, is a Minangkabau classic. The beef, thinly sliced and pounded, had a texture that was simultaneously chewy and tender, offering a satisfying bite. What truly elevated it was the lado ijo, or green chili sambal. Unlike red sambals, which can sometimes be overwhelmingly hot, this green chili paste had a more nuanced heat; fiery, yes, but also aromatic and slightly tangy. It clung to the beef beautifully, creating a dish that was both bold and addictive.

To round off our savoury selections, we tried Sayur Kapau, a vegetable curry originating from the town of Bukittinggi in West Sumatra. This dish features a medley of vegetables like jackfruit, eggplant, and long beans, simmered in a spiced coconut milk broth. The flavours were comforting yet complex, a reminder of how Padang food isn’t just about heat, but also about depth and balance. The Sayur Kapau offered a refreshing contrast to the heavier meat dishes, providing both variety and a sense of completeness to the meal.

Sayur Kapau

No meal is truly complete without dessert, and at Marco Padang, we couldn’t resist trying the Pisang Panggang Padang. This dish featured grilled bananas topped with a drizzle of palm sugar syrup and grated coconut. It was simple yet delightful, with the natural sweetness of the banana amplified by the smoky notes from the grill. The palm sugar added a caramel-like richness, while the coconut provided a nutty crunch. It was the perfect ending—light, not overly sweet, and distinctly Indonesian.

Pisang Panggang Padang

Dining at Marco Padang with Mario reminded me why Padang food continues to capture hearts across Indonesia. It is more than just sustenance; it is storytelling on a plate. Every dish has its roots in tradition, tied to the geography, culture, and communal values of West Sumatra. Yet, what Chef Marco has done is remarkable; he has managed to preserve that authenticity while presenting it in a way that resonates with today’s diners.

Lunch at Batik Kuring: A Mixed Experience

 Jakarta - I had the chance to dine at Batik Kuring, a well-known Indonesian restaurant that has built a reputation for serving authentic flavors with a modern touch. Batik Kuring is often recognised not just for its traditional Indonesian dishes but also for its elegant presentation and warm ambiance. Over the years, it has received numerous awards for culinary excellence and service, frequently appearing on lists of recommended dining establishments in the city. Its reputation suggests a place where food, culture, and hospitality come together seamlessly.

Batik Kuring prides itself on highlighting the diversity of Indonesian cuisine, offering dishes inspired by recipes from across the archipelago. The restaurant’s name itself reflects a fusion of culture and tradition: “batik,” a symbol of Indonesia’s rich textile heritage, and “kuring,” which means “our food” in Sundanese. This philosophy is carried into their menu, which is both varied and rooted in authenticity.

The fried prawns with salted egg were aromatic and flavorful, with a rich coating that balanced well with the sweetness of the prawns. 

Sop Butut

When the sop buntut arrived, I had high expectations. A good oxtail soup should be rich in flavor, with meat that is tender enough to fall off the bone. Sadly, my serving was far from that. The oxtail was very tough and chewy, making it difficult to enjoy. I pointed this out to the staff, who were polite and took it back to the kitchen. A short while later, they returned with another bowl.

Unfortunately, the replacement wasn’t much better. While the broth was aromatic and had a pleasant blend of spices, the texture of the meat was still far from what I would expect especially at a restaurant of Batik Kuring’s caliber.

Young coconut

The prawns and the overall dining atmosphere lived up to expectations, but the sop buntut was a real letdown. For the price point, I felt the quality should have been held to a much higher standard.

Monas - National Monument of Indonesia

Jakarta -  Jakarta is a city that never really stops moving—its streets buzzing with life, its skyline constantly growing taller, and its history deeply embedded in every corner. During my recent morning in the Indonesian capital, I decided to visit one of its most iconic landmarks: Monumen Nasional, more popularly known as Monas.

Towering at 132 meters in the heart of Merdeka Square, Monas is not just a monument but a symbol of Indonesia’s struggle for independence. For many, it is the nation’s pride, standing tall with its golden flame on top. For me, it was a chance to see Jakarta from a new perspective, quite literally. My morning here was filled with a mix of history, culture, and panoramic views that offered both reflection and wonder.

As I got closer, the scale of the monument became clearer. It is simple yet majestic, a towering obelisk that draws your eyes upwards. The monument was commissioned by President Sukarno in the early 1960s and finally completed in 1975. Every Indonesian student grows up learning about Monas as a national symbol, and seeing it in person gave me a sense of the country’s resilience and pride.

After I paid the entrance fee, I entered the huge hall which is their museum.  The museum showcases dioramas that tell the story of the country’s struggle for independence, from the early kingdoms and Dutch colonial period to the Japanese occupation and finally the proclamation of independence in 1945. Each diorama is carefully crafted, almost like a frozen moment in time.

Pledge of Independence

The Slow Lift Ride to the Top

One of the highlights of visiting Monas is, of course, the viewing gallery at the top. Accessing it involves taking a single lift up the core of the tower. What struck me was how slow the lift was. Unlike modern high-speed elevators in skyscrapers, this one felt like a deliberate, almost ceremonial journey upwards.

At first, I was impatient, but as the seconds ticked by, I realised the slow pace added to the anticipation. It gave me time to imagine what the view might be like once the doors opened. Finally, after what felt like several long minutes, the lift reached its destination.

The 4 views from the top.  The city stretched endlessly in every direction—tall office towers, clusters of residential buildings, winding roads filled with traffic, and patches of green parks breaking up the urban sprawl.

To the north, I could see the outlines of the old city and beyond it, the faint line of the Java Sea shimmering in the distance. To the south, Jakarta’s modern skyscrapers stood proudly, each one representing the city’s rapid growth. Looking down, Merdeka Square formed a massive green carpet around the monument, a refreshing contrast to the dense urban jungle outside.

The view was both impressive and humbling. Jakarta is a city of contrasts with old and new, tradition and modernity, all coexisting in one dynamic metropolis. From this vantage point, I could almost feel the pulse of the city, a reminder of why Monas was built as a unifying symbol.