Day 1: A Humid Day Exploring Kota Tua (Semarang old city)

 Semarang - The Garuda plane had no air-condition whilst on the tarmac and it was so hot in the plane.  The steward told me that the pilot will turn on the aircon once the plane takes off.   

The moment I stepped out into the streets of Semarang, one thing was immediately clear; the weather was incredibly humid. The air felt thick and heavy, wrapping around you like a warm blanket. It’s the kind of heat that slows you down, but also adds to the city’s old-world charm.

Semarang, the capital of Central Java, is one of Indonesia's oldest and most historically significant port cities. Its name is widely believed to have originated from the Javanese phrase "asem arang," which literally means "sparse tamarind trees." According to local tradition, when the area was first settled several centuries ago, only a few tamarind trees (asem in Javanese) grew along the coastline and surrounding plains. The phrase asem arang gradually evolved in pronunciation over time into Semarang, the name the city bears today.

The city's modern history began in the 15th century, when the Chinese Muslim admiral Zheng He (Cheng Ho) visited Java during his famous maritime expeditions. Chinese traders soon established settlements in the area, making Semarang an important trading hub linking China, the Malay Archipelago, and the spice-producing islands of eastern Indonesia.

During the Dutch colonial period, Semarang became one of the Dutch East Indies' principal commercial ports alongside Batavia (Jakarta) and Surabaya. The Dutch developed an extensive harbour, railways, warehouses, and the now-famous Kota Lama (Old Town), earning Semarang the nickname "Little Netherlands" because of its beautifully preserved European architecture.

Today, Semarang is a vibrant city where Javanese, Chinese, Arab, and Dutch influences blend harmoniously. Visitors can explore historic landmarks such as Lawang Sewu, Sam Poo Kong Temple, the colonial buildings of Kota Lama, and its bustling culinary scene. The city's name, rooted in the humble tamarind tree, reflects its transformation from a small coastal settlement into one of Indonesia's most important cultural, economic, and historical centres.

Just a short 5-minute walk from my hotel, I visited Batik Danar Hadi. Known as one of Indonesia’s most respected batik brands, the store showcases beautifully crafted traditional fabrics. Walking through the shop felt like stepping into a cultural gallery, with intricate patterns telling stories of heritage and craftsmanship.

Next, I made my way to the iconic Semarang Tawang railway station. This historic station is a striking example of Dutch colonial architecture, with its grand facade, high ceilings, and symmetrical design. What makes it truly unique is its resilience despite frequent flooding in the area, the station continues to operate and remains a key transport hub. Its vintage charm, combined with its enduring functionality, gives it a character unlike modern stations.

Right in front of the station lies the scenic Polder Tawang, an artificial pond that plays an important role in flood control. At its centre stands the Soekarno Monument, a statue honouring Indonesia’s first president. The monument faces the colonial station, creating a symbolic contrast between Indonesia’s independence and its colonial past—a powerful visual moment. 

To end the day, I had dinner at Toko Oen, a place steeped in history. Established during the Dutch colonial era, Toko Oen has preserved its nostalgic charm with classic interiors and an old-world ambience. It’s known for its Dutch-style comfort food and traditional ice cream, making it a favourite among locals and visitors alike.

I ordered the rijst met hachee, a hearty Dutch-style beef stew served with rice, followed by a delightful dessert plain poffertjes are traditional Dutch mini pancakes, characterized by their small size, fluffy, tender texture, and a slightly spongy bite. Made with yeast and often buckwheat flour, they are traditionally served warm with powdered sugar and butter.  Simple yet satisfying, the meal perfectly matched the restaurant’s timeless character.

rijst met hachee

Poffertjes

Semarang may be humid, but its rich history, cultural depth, and unique experiences make every moment worthwhile.

Tahu petis originated from Semarang, and so I ordered one dish with the petis on the side to try via Grab food.  Tahu petis is a popular Semarang delicacy consisting of crispy-fried white tofu served with a thick, savoury-sweet black shrimp paste (petis) stuffed inside or served on the side.   It tasted really savoury and delicious.  

Tahu Petis