Day 3: A Scenic Journey to Candi Gedong Songo

Semarang - About a two-hour drive from Semarang, my visit to Candi Gedong Songo was one of the most refreshing and scenic experiences of the trip. Nestled on the slopes of Mount Ungaran, this ancient temple complex offers not just history, but breathtaking views and cool mountain air and a welcome escape from the humidity of the city.

Candi Gedong Songo, which translates to “Nine Buildings,” is a collection of Hindu temples believed to have been built during the 8th–9th century, during the Mataram Kingdom. These temples are spread across the hillside, reflecting the architectural style and religious practices of early Javanese civilisation. Today, only five main temple groups remain accessible, but each one tells a story of Indonesia’s rich past.

The entrance fee was Rp75,000, and the journey began at Gedong I, the first temple complex. Sitting at an altitude of 1,208 metres above sea level, it is the easiest to reach and one of the most visited spots. Before entering, I paid a small fee of Rp3,000 to rent a cloth as a sign of respect. The temple itself is modest yet atmospheric, with misty mountain views adding to its charm.

From Gedong I, I continued the trek upward towards Gedong II. The path winds through lush greenery and offers stunning panoramic views at every turn. It’s a relatively gentle hike, but the elevation makes it feel more adventurous. Along the way, I passed locals offering horse rides; it's an alternative for those who prefer not to walk.

As one of the five restored sites (Gedong I-V), Temple II is part of the oldest Hindu structures in Java, predating Borobudur and Prambanan.

Gedong III - Gedong Songo III dates to the 8th century, with many suggesting 730-800 as the most likely date.  

my driver

One of the most interesting stops was the natural hot springs located between Gedong III and IV. Rich in sulfur, the springs have a strong, distinctive smell; somewhat like boiled eggs but they are known for their therapeutic properties. Seeing the steam rise against the cool mountain air created a surreal and almost mystical atmosphere.

hot spring swimming pool

very hot water

The highlight of the visit was reaching Gedong IV located even higher up at around 1,300 metres above sea level. These temple complexes are larger and more expansive compared to the earlier ones. At Gedong IV, there is one main temple surrounded by more than ten smaller ruins, along with another temple located about 100 metres away. The area opens into a wide field surrounded by pine forests, making it one of the most picturesque spots in the entire complex.

Gedong V - the last temple at the highest elevation of Candi Gedong Songo.

From here, the view of Mount Ungaran in the background is simply stunning. It’s no surprise that this area is popular for photography and even horseback riding. The combination of ancient ruins, open landscapes, and mountain scenery creates a truly unforgettable experience.