Old Friends, Chicken Rice, and Stories That Never Get Old

 Singapore - There is something special about meeting old friends — the kind of people who knew you long before careers, responsibilities, and life schedules got complicated. Recently, I had the joy of catching up with Jacob and Wai Kin at Golden Mile Tower over one of Singapore’s most comforting meals: chicken rice and drinks. We are old friends from St Andrew’s Youth Fellowship (YF), and even though we don’t meet often these days, when we do, time seems to collapse back into those carefree years.

There are few things in life as comforting as reconnecting with old friends, especially when good food and laughter are part of the plan. Recently, I had one of those moments — sitting down with Jacob and Wai Kin for chicken rice and drinks at Thian Kee Hainanese Kitchen in Golden Mile Tower, a nostalgic reunion that reminded me how friendships from formative years stay close to the heart, even as life moves on.

Thian Kee Hainanese Kitchen, tucked within the character-filled Golden Mile Tower, was our meeting point. The restaurant’s reputation for authentic Hainanese chicken rice made it the perfect backdrop for a catch-up. From the moment we took our seats, there was an easy familiarity in the air — like no time had passed at all.

The chicken rice lived up to its promise. Tender Hainanese chicken, perfectly flavoured rice, and a rich, fragrant chilli sauce — each bite was simple yet deeply satisfying. We paired it with cold drinks, watching the afternoon sun filter through the buzz of Golden Mile Tower. It was more than just a meal; it was a moment of connection.

We spoke about life updates; careers, family, challenges, and achievements. The familiarity of conversation surprised me; even after months apart, it was like the distance of time dissolved the moment we looked at each other. Reconnecting over something as comforting as chicken rice somehow made everything feel right again.

Dinner at Sinvana Restaurant: Simple Dishes Done Right

 Sukhothai -  I had dinner at Sinvana Restaurant, a local dining spot known for its relaxed atmosphere and straightforward Thai cooking. It is the kind of place where both locals and travellers come for comforting food rather than elaborate presentation. The menu focuses on familiar Thai flavours, prepared with confidence and served without fuss.

I started with a classic Thai vegetable dish; stir-fried morning glory (Kangkong) with chilli and garlic. Though simple, this dish set the tone for the meal. The morning glory was cooked quickly over high heat, retaining its crunch while soaking up the fragrant garlic and chilli. The balance was just right: savoury, slightly spicy, and aromatic. Paired with hot steamed rice, it was comforting and deeply satisfying, proving once again that Thai cuisine often shines brightest in its simplest forms.

The highlight of the meal, however, was the deep-fried snakehead fish with sweet chilli sauce. The fish was fried whole until golden and crisp, with the skin crackling lightly under the fork while the flesh inside remained moist and tender. The sweet chilli sauce added a pleasant contrast—sticky, mildly spicy, and slightly tangy—complementing the natural flavour of the fish without overpowering it.

Snakehead fish, commonly used in Thai cuisine, is a freshwater fish found in rivers, canals, and ponds across Southeast Asia. It is prized for its firm, white flesh and mild taste, which makes it ideal for frying, grilling, or steaming. In Thailand, snakehead fish is often associated with rustic, home-style cooking and is a staple in many provincial dishes. Its firm texture holds up well to deep frying, making it perfect for dishes like the one served at Sinvana Restaurant.

What stood out during the meal was the freshness of the ingredients. The fish tasted clean and natural, suggesting it was sourced locally, while the vegetables were vibrant and well prepared. There was no unnecessary complexity. Just good ingredients treated with care.

The atmosphere at Sinvana Restaurant was calm and welcoming. It felt unpretentious, with a focus on feeding people well rather than impressing them. This is the kind of restaurant where flavours speak for themselves, and where locals feel comfortable returning regularly.

A Quiet Morning at Ramkhamhaeng National Museum, Sukhothai

 Sukhothai - After an early start in Sukhothai, I spent my morning visiting the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum, a modest yet insightful museum that offers a deeper understanding of the Sukhothai Kingdom beyond its temple ruins. Located near the Sukhothai Historical Park, the museum is well placed for visitors who want historical context before or after exploring the ancient sites.

The museum itself is small and compact, spread across two floors, and can comfortably be completed in about 40 minutes. Despite its size, it does an excellent job of presenting the key cultural, religious, and artistic achievements of the Sukhothai period in a clear and organised manner. It felt like a calm and unhurried experience, perfect for a morning visit before the heat of the day set in.

On the ground floor, the focus is on stone artefacts and architectural remnants uncovered from the historical park. Here, I saw carved Buddha images, stone inscriptions, boundary markers, and fragments of temple decorations. These pieces, though weathered by time, clearly reflect the refined craftsmanship of the Sukhothai era. Informational panels explain the symbolism behind Buddha postures and facial expressions, helping visitors understand why Sukhothai art is often described as graceful, serene, and spiritually balanced.

Moving up to the second floor, the emphasis shifts to ceramics, pottery, and smaller artefacts, including the famous Sangkhalok ware. These glazed ceramics were once exported across Southeast Asia and are a testament to Sukhothai’s role as a regional trading and cultural hub. The variety of bowls, jars, and decorative pieces displayed shows both functional and artistic mastery. Some items still carry faint traces of colour and glaze, hinting at how vibrant they must have looked centuries ago.

What I appreciated most was how the museum tied everyday objects to daily life in ancient Sukhothai. Tools, household items, and religious objects are displayed alongside explanations of how people lived, worshipped, and governed. This grounding in daily reality made the history feel accessible rather than distant.

The museum is quiet and uncrowded, allowing time to read the descriptions and observe the artefacts without distraction. Clear signage in English and Thai makes it easy to follow the flow of exhibits. While it may not be large or flashy, it is thoughtfully curated and avoids overwhelming visitors with excessive information.

In just 40 minutes, the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum provided valuable context that enriched my understanding of the temples and ruins I had seen around Sukhothai. It served as a gentle historical primer, connecting art, religion, and daily life in a way that complemented the outdoor exploration perfectly.

A Morning Immersion at Tra Phang Thong Market, Sukhothai

 Sukhothai - One of the most authentic ways to understand a place is to visit its wet market, and in Sukhothai, Tra Phang Thong Market offers a vivid window into everyday local life. Bustling, colourful, and full of energy, this market is where residents come not just to shop, but to connect, eat, and go about their daily routines. Open from as early as 6am and operating well into the night, it serves as a central heartbeat of the community.

Arriving in the early morning, the market is already alive. Stall holders are busy arranging their produce, calling out to regular customers, and preparing fresh ingredients for the day. The air carries a mix of aromas—raw meats, herbs, spices, and freshly cooked food—all blending into a sensory experience that feels raw and real.

One of the most striking sections of Tra Phang Thong Market is the fresh meat area. Vendors sell freshly cut pork and chicken, displayed simply and confidently, a testament to the market’s high turnover and local trust. Cuts are portioned on the spot, often tailored to customers’ requests, reflecting the personal relationship between buyer and seller. There is nothing industrial or rushed here; just traditional trade carried out with skill and familiarity.

Equally impressive is the variety of vegetables on offer. From leafy greens and herbs to root vegetables and gourds, the selection is vast and seasonal. Alongside the fresh produce are jars and trays of pickled vegetables, a staple in Thai cooking. These fermented items add sharpness and depth to meals and are clearly popular, with many locals stopping to sample or purchase small portions for home cooking.

Beyond raw ingredients, Tra Phang Thong Market truly shines in its cooked food stalls. These are the places where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are sorted for many locals. From curries and stir-fried dishes to grilled meats, snacks, and sweets, the range is impressive. Many stalls specialise in just one or two dishes, refining them over years of repetition. Watching vendors cook is a pleasure in itself with quick hands, well-worn woks, and recipes committed entirely to muscle memory.

What makes Tra Phang Thong Market special is its authenticity. It is not curated for tourists, nor is it polished for social media. Instead, it remains deeply functional as a place that feeds the town, supports small traders, and preserves daily traditions. Conversations happen in passing, smiles are exchanged, and life unfolds naturally between the stalls.

Visiting Tra Phang Thong Market is more than a shopping trip; it’s a cultural experience. It shows how food connects people, how tradition survives through routine, and how a market can quietly anchor a community from dawn till nightfall.

Sukhothai Mornings: Wat Traphang Thong and the Sacred Act of Giving Alms

 Sukhothai - I woke up at 5.30am in Sukhothai to prepare for an early morning walk to Wat Traphang Thong, wrapped in the cool air that lingers just before sunrise. The streets were quiet, and the soft light of dawn gave the town a calm, almost timeless feeling. As I approached the temple, I could already see many tourists and locals gathering along the wooden bridge, all waiting respectfully for one of Thailand’s most meaningful daily rituals; the giving of alms to monks.

Wat Traphang Thong is one of Sukhothai’s most distinctive temples, set on a small island surrounded by a lotus-filled pond within the historical park. Unlike the ancient ruins nearby, this temple remains active and well maintained, serving as a living place of worship. A wooden bridge connects the temple to the mainland, symbolising the connection between the spiritual and everyday world. Its peaceful setting, reflective waters, and early morning rituals make Wat Traphang Thong especially meaningful, offering visitors a rare opportunity to witness living Buddhist traditions within a UNESCO-listed heritage landscape.

As the sky slowly brightened, monks in their saffron robes appeared, walking barefoot in a single line across the bridge. Their calm presence contrasted beautifully with the stillness of the morning. The ritual of almsgiving, known as Tak Bat, is deeply rooted in Buddhist practice. Monks collect alms early in the morning because they live by a code of discipline that prohibits them from cooking or handling money. Instead, they rely on the generosity of the lay community for their daily sustenance, reinforcing humility, gratitude, and interdependence.

Tourists and locals had already purchased alms offerings, usually small sets prepared by vendors nearby. These included rice, fruits, snacks, and sometimes bottled drinks. Everyone sat quietly on mats laid along the bridge, waiting patiently. When the monks approached, each person gently placed their offerings into the monks’ metal alms bowls, careful to remain respectful and composed. There was no rush, no noise—just a shared moment of calm generosity.

local old lady giving alms

What struck me most was the quiet harmony of the experience. Despite the presence of tourists, the ritual retained its dignity. People observed, participated respectfully, and allowed the monks to lead the pace. The cool morning air, the sound of chanting, and the sight of saffron robes reflected in the water made the experience profoundly moving.

Mother and son along the street

Giving alms at Wat Traphang Thong was more than a cultural activity; it was a reminder of mindfulness, generosity, and the beauty of simple human connection. In the early hours of the morning, surrounded by history and faith, Sukhothai revealed its soul in the most gentle and meaningful way.

Home-Style Comfort at Sureerat Restaurant, Sukhothai

 Sukhothai - One of the most memorable meals I had in Sukhothai wasn’t found in a polished dining room or a tourist-packed restaurant, but in a humble, family-run eatery called Sureerat Restaurant. Tucked away like a neighbourhood secret, this place captures the heart of Thai home-style cooking—simple, honest, and deeply comforting.

From the moment I stepped in, it was clear that Sureerat is a true family operation. An elderly man and his son manned the front of the restaurant, handling orders, only cash payments, and greeting customers with quiet warmth. Behind the scenes, the women of the family worked steadily in the kitchen, preparing each dish with the ease and confidence that only comes from years of cooking for loved ones. There was no rush, no theatrics—just food made the way it has always been made.

Language was not a barrier here. Although the family barely spoke English, the restaurant thoughtfully provided an English menu, and ordering was as easy as pointing to the dish you wanted. In many ways, that small gesture reflected the hospitality of Sureerat—welcoming, practical, and sincere.

I first visited Sureerat for lunch, where I ordered Pad Thai with prawns for an incredibly affordable 60 baht. What arrived was a textbook example of how this classic dish should be done. The noodles were lightly charred, coated in a well-balanced sauce that was neither too sweet nor too tangy. The prawns were fresh and properly cooked, adding sweetness and texture to the dish. It was straightforward, unpretentious, and satisfying—exactly what a midday meal in Sukhothai should be.

Green Curry

Dinner was a more indulgent affair. For 320 baht (about S$13.30), I enjoyed a full meal that included green chicken curry with rice, a plate of prawn omelette, and one bottle of beer; a price that feels almost unreal by city standards.

The green chicken curry was rich and aromatic, with a coconut milk base that was creamy without being heavy. The curry had depth, warmth, and just the right level of spice, clinging beautifully to the tender pieces of chicken. Paired with steamed rice, it was deeply comforting, the kind of dish that feels like it belongs at a family table.

The prawn omelette was another highlight. Crispy around the edges and fluffy inside, it was generously filled with prawns and lightly seasoned, allowing the natural sweetness of the seafood to shine through. Paired with a cold beer, it was the perfect way to end the day.

What makes Sureerat Restaurant special isn’t just the food; it’s the atmosphere. Dining here feels like being welcomed into someone’s home. There’s a sense of continuity, of family tradition, and of pride in simple, well-cooked meals.

In a historic town like Sukhothai, Sureerat offers something equally valuable as temples and ruins: a taste of everyday life. Honest prices, comforting flavours, and heartfelt hospitality make this family-run restaurant a place I’d return to without hesitation.

Sukothai Historial Park - UNESCO

Sukothai -  Sukhothai was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it represents the first capital of the Kingdom of Siam and the birthplace of Thai civilisation in the 13th century. The Sukhothai Historical Park preserves outstanding examples of early Thai architecture, urban planning, and Buddhist art. Its temples, sculptures, reservoirs, and city layout reflect a unique blend of local traditions and influences from Sri Lanka and Khmer culture. Sukhothai also played a crucial role in the development of the Thai language, religion, and governance, making it a cornerstone of Thailand’s cultural and historical identity.

Cycling Through History

With the bicycle beneath me and the sun slowly rising higher, I entered the Sukhothai Historical Park, starting with the free-access zones. The first temple I encountered was Wat Sorasak, easily recognisable by the elephants encircling its base — strong, symbolic guardians frozen in time. 

Nearby was Wat Son Khao, quieter and less restored, offering a more contemplative atmosphere.

I continued on to Wat Mae Chon and Wat Noen Ron Thong, where the ruins sat peacefully among trees and open land. These temples weren’t crowded, and cycling between them felt almost meditative. 

Wat Mae Chon

Wat Noen Ron Thong

One of the most fascinating stops was the excavation site of the Sukhothai kilns, where ancient ceramic production once thrived. Seeing where everyday objects were crafted centuries ago made history feel tangible and human.

From there, I made my way to the North Park, paying an entrance fee of THB 120. Cycling wasn’t allowed inside, so I parked my bike and walked in. Standing directly in front of me was the iconic Wat Si Chum, home to the massive seated Buddha visible through a narrow opening. The scale and serenity of the statue were breathtaking — one of those moments where silence feels appropriate.

The same ticket granted access to Wat Phra Phai Luang, about a 10-minute ride away, with an additional THB 10 bicycle fee. This temple, older and influenced by Khmer architecture, felt distinctly different from the others — raw, powerful, and historically significant.

Finally, I cycled for about 20 minutes to the heart of it all: the Central Sukhothai Historical Park. The entrance fee here was THB 200, plus THB 10 for the bicycle, though I was allowed in after showing my earlier ticket. This area showcased some of Sukhothai’s most magnificent architecture — grand chedis, serene Buddha statues, and expansive ponds reflecting centuries-old structures.

As I cycled slowly through the central park, I felt a deep appreciation for the preservation of this place. Sukhothai isn’t loud or overwhelming. 

By the time I returned the bicycle, tired but fulfilled, I knew that waking up at 4am had been more than worth it.