Thursday, August 28, 2025

Dapur Solo Restaurant, Botani Square Bogor

Bogor - I decided to have lunch at Dapur Solo, a well-known Indonesian restaurant chain, at Botani Square Mall. It turned out to be a satisfying culinary experience that combined comfort, tradition, and just the right amount of indulgence.  It was just a walking distance from my hotel.

Botani Square Bogor – A Modern Mall in the Heart of the City

Botani Square is one of the most popular malls in Bogor, conveniently located along Jalan Pajajaran, not far from the iconic Bogor Botanical Gardens. As a modern shopping destination, it has become a gathering place for locals and tourists alike, offering a mix of fashion outlets, supermarkets, lifestyle stores, and a wide variety of restaurants. On weekends especially, the mall is bustling with families enjoying a day out, couples strolling from shop to shop, and students hanging out at the many cafés.

For me, the mall was the perfect stop after a morning of sightseeing. With its cool air-conditioning and diverse food choices, Botani Square offered a welcome break from Bogor’s busy streets. Among the many dining options, I chose Dapur Solo, eager to enjoy some traditional Indonesian dishes.

The story of Dapur Solo is a fascinating one. What began as a small home business founded by Hj. Swan Kumarga in the 1980s has since grown into one of Indonesia’s most respected restaurant chains specialising in authentic Solo cuisine. The founder’s vision was simple yet powerful: to introduce the rich culinary heritage of Solo (Surakarta), Central Java, to a wider audience, while keeping the flavours true to tradition.

I decided to try the sop buntut (oxtail soup), one of Indonesia’s most beloved dishes. From the very first sip, I could tell it was prepared with care. The broth was fragrant, infused with a blend of spices that gave it both depth and warmth. The oxtail itself was incredibly tender, the kind of meat that falls off the bone with little effort.

What made the soup truly addictive was its balance, it wasn’t overly heavy, yet it was rich enough to make you savour every spoonful. I found myself finishing the entire bowl, enjoying the way the spices lingered on the palate. Sop buntut at Dapur Solo is definitely a dish I would return for.

The second dish I ordered was gado-gado lontong, my favourite Indonesian dish that never disappoints. Gado-gado is essentially a mixed vegetable salad topped with a creamy peanut sauce, and the lontong (compressed rice cakes) makes it more filling.

The peanut sauce at Dapur Solo was especially good; smooth, nutty, and just the right balance of sweet and savoury. It coated the vegetables and lontong perfectly, elevating the dish into something far more satisfying than a simple salad. Every bite was fresh yet hearty.


Walk Through Suryakencana Street Market

 Bogor - From the moment I arrived, I was swept up by the energy. The street was packed—vendors arranging their goods, locals queuing for breakfast and the irresistible aroma of sizzling dishes filling the air. Suryakencana is not a quiet street; it thrives on noise, colour, and movement. Everywhere you turn, there is vegetables and fruits being sold, chicken and fishmongers hawking their produce and the whole place was chaotic.  

Breakfast at a Bakso Mie Stall

For breakfast, I stopped at a modest bakso mie stall. The crowd around it was enough to tell me I was in the right place. Bakso mie is a beloved Indonesian dish that combines bakso (meatballs) with mie (noodles), often served in a rich broth with vegetables, tofu, and sometimes fried dumplings.

Bakso Mie



The bakso itself was flavourful.  The meatballs were firm yet tender, made from a mixture of beef and tapioca flour that gave it that signature springy bite. The noodles were simple but satisfying, soaking up the savoury broth perfectly. Sitting on a wooded stool, I felt completely immersed in the local rhythm of life. 

The Historical Significance of Suryakencana

Suryakencana is more than just a food street; it is also a place steeped in history. Bogor’s Chinatown dates back to the Dutch colonial period, when Chinese traders and settlers played a vital role in the city’s economy. Over the centuries, this area became a hub for commerce, religion, and cultural exchange.

Even today, you can still see traces of its heritage. Traditional Chinese shophouses line the street, many with faded yet beautiful architectural details. Temples and shrines add a spiritual layer to the neighbourhood, standing as reminders of Bogor’s multicultural roots. Walking through Suryakencana feels like stepping into a living archive of Bogor’s past, where the stories of migration, resilience, and cultural blending continue to unfold.

Bogor Zoology Museum

Bogor - After a long, refreshing walk around the lush Bogor Botanical Gardens, I ended my day at the Bogor Zoology Museum, a fascinating space filled with stories of science, colonial history, and Indonesia’s incredible biodiversity.  


The Bogor Zoology Museum, or Museum Zoologi Bogor, is located just beside the main entrance of the Botanical Gardens, making it an easy last stop after exploring the greenery. The museum has an illustrious history that dates back to 1894, when it was founded during the Dutch East Indies colonial era.

It was Dr. J.C. Koningsberger, a Dutch botanist and zoologist, who first established the museum in August of that year. Originally, it began as a small laboratory in the corner of the Botanical Gardens—then called Lands Plantentuin. Over time, it grew in both size and importance, becoming a center for zoological research in Southeast Asia. Today, it covers 1,500 square meters and houses one of the most extensive collections of fauna specimens in Asia.

Walking through the museum, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of how knowledge and curiosity bridged centuries.  It started as a colonial laboratory has now become an invaluable educational and cultural treasure for Indonesia.



Inside the Collections

The Bogor Zoology Museum is divided into 24 rooms, all carefully maintained at 22 degrees Celsius to preserve its delicate specimens. The range of collections is nothing short of impressive:

  • Insects: Over 12,000 species and 2.58 million specimens, neatly displayed in glass cases. From colorful butterflies to beetles, the sheer diversity is astonishing.

  • Mammals: Around 650 species with 30,000 specimens, ranging from small rodents to larger animals that showcase Indonesia’s diverse habitats.

  • Poultry (Birds): About 1,000 species and 30,762 specimens, reflecting the archipelago’s reputation as a birdwatcher’s paradise.

  • Reptiles and Amphibians: 763 species and nearly 20,000 specimens, including snakes, lizards, and frogs that represent the tropical rainforests.

  • Mollusks: Nearly 13,146 specimens of shells and other sea creatures.

  • Invertebrates: More than 15,558 specimens, capturing the often-overlooked diversity of marine and terrestrial life.




The most breathtaking exhibit, however, is the blue whale skeleton. Stretched across the hall, this massive skeleton is the largest of its kind in Indonesia. Standing before it, I felt both humbled and awed, it was a stark reminder of the grandeur of life beneath the ocean’s surface.



A Morning Walk Through Bogor Botanical Gardens: History, Beauty, and Hidden Stories

Bogor - Nestled in the heart of Bogor, West Java, lies one of Indonesia’s oldest and most iconic green sanctuaries — the Bogor Botanical Gardens (Kebun Raya Bogor). Known for its sprawling 87 hectares of curated greenery, colonial heritage, and scientific importance, the gardens have stood for over two centuries as both a living museum and a place of retreat for locals and visitors alike. On my recent morning walk through this national treasure, I was reminded not only of its natural beauty but also its historical depth and the quiet stories that unfold as one wanders through its grounds.


Finding the Entrance: A Walk Before the Walk

Staying at a hotel near the western side of the gardens, I expected a straightforward entrance. But as I learned, there is only one main entrance into the Botanical Gardens, and unfortunately, the hotel’s front desk was not familiar with the details. While the West Gate was physically closer, it was closed to public entry, and so I had to walk nearly 10 minutes further around to reach the official entrance.  There were many people running or walking the perimeter of the Botanical Gardens.  There is a Rp 15,000 entrance fee.

Though slightly inconvenient, this extra walk had its charm — it gave me a chance to see the bustling streets surrounding Bogor’s most famous landmark. 

First Stop: Istana Bogor (Bogor Presidential Palace)

Once inside, the first landmark that immediately captures attention is the Istana Bogor — the Bogor Presidential Palace. This elegant white building, with its classical European architectural influence and sprawling lawns, is one of six presidential palaces in Indonesia.

As a visitor, I was only allowed to admire it from the outside and take photographs. Still, even from a distance, the palace exudes a sense of grandeur and calm. Originally built in the mid-18th century as the residence of the Dutch Governor-General, it later became one of the favourite retreats of Indonesian presidents. Its white pillars, long corridors, and serene surroundings reflect both history and power. 


The Bamboo Forest

From the palace, I continued my walk toward the Bamboo Forest, a tranquil area that feels like stepping into nature’s cathedral. Towering bamboo stalks arched overhead, their rustling leaves whispering in the breeze. The light filtering through the thick clusters created an almost spiritual ambiance — cool, quiet, and grounding.

This area reminded me of similar bamboo groves in Asia, yet it carried a distinctly Indonesian character. It was easy to imagine why such spaces are often considered sacred and calming. Walking under the shade of these living pillars was one of the most peaceful moments of my morning.




A short walk away, I came across one of the gardens’ more unexpected landmarks — the Dutch cemetery. Dating back to colonial times, this cemetery holds the remains of Dutch officials, scientists, and their families who once lived and worked in Bogor.

Though modest in size, the weathered tombstones stood as silent reminders of the layered history embedded in these gardens. Surrounded by greenery, the cemetery felt less eerie and more like a quiet archive of lives intertwined with the history of Bogor and Indonesia’s botanical legacy.


Walking across the Botanical Gardens is no small task. Covering nearly 87 hectares, it can feel like a journey across an open-air museum. The paths are long and winding, shaded by massive trees that are themselves centuries old.

While the gardens offer many picturesque corners, they are also showing signs of age. Wooden panels and benches in some areas were rusting or broken, suggesting that the site could benefit from major renovation and upkeep. Despite these shortcomings, the gardens still exude a timeless charm, the kind of place where history, nature, and culture blend seamlessly.


Teijsmann Garden: A Tribute to a Pioneer

Further along, I reached the Teijsmann Garden, a section named after Johannes Elias Teijsmann, the Dutch botanist who served as curator of the gardens for more than 50 years in the 19th century. Under his leadership, the Bogor Botanical Gardens expanded their scientific research and introduced numerous plant species from across the Indonesian archipelago and beyond.

The Teijsmann Garden serves as both a memorial and a celebration of the role he played in making Kebun Raya Bogor a world-class botanical center. Walking through it, I felt a sense of gratitude for the dedication of early botanists who preserved, studied, and expanded Indonesia’s rich plant diversity.


Cactus Park: A Desert in the Tropics

Among the more surprising features of the gardens is the Cactus Park, which showcases a variety of cacti from around the world. Standing amid Bogor’s cool and humid climate, the sight of desert plants was striking.

The collection, though modest, highlighted the global connections of the gardens, emphasising their role not just as a local retreat but as part of a broader international network of botanical study.



Sir Stamford Raffles’ Wife Memorial

Perhaps the most poignant moment of my walk came when I stumbled upon the memorial of Lady Olivia Marianne Raffles, the first wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, who served as the British Lieutenant-Governor of Java. Lady Olivia died in Bogor in 1814, and her memorial stands within the gardens as a quiet testament to love, loss, and colonial history.

Simple yet elegant, the memorial brought a human touch to the grand narratives of empire and botany. Standing before it, I felt connected not just to the history of the gardens but also to the deeply personal stories embedded within its landscape.


My morning walk through Bogor Botanical Gardens was both inspiring and thought-provoking. The gardens are undeniably beautiful — filled with towering trees, tranquil groves, and historic landmarks that tell stories of colonial ambition, scientific discovery, and personal lives. The Istana Bogor, the Bamboo Forest, the Dutch cemetery, the Teijsmann Garden, the Cactus Park, and the Raffles memorial each added a unique layer to the experience.

Monday, August 25, 2025

A Lunch at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis: History, Art, and a Feast of Flavours

 Jakarta - Jakarta is a city where history often hides in plain sight, tucked behind the chaotic rush of traffic and the modern skyline. Yet sometimes, you stumble into a place that feels like stepping back in time. My recent lunch at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, located in the leafy Menteng neighbourhood, was one such moment. More than just a restaurant, it is a place where the colonial past, art, and cuisine converge in a magnificent setting.

A Building with a Story

The Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is not your ordinary dining venue. Originally built in 1914, this stately Dutch colonial building once served as the Fine Arts Circle of the Dutch East Indies. For decades, it was a hub of cultural life, a gathering place for intellectuals, artists, and colonial elites. Its name “Kunstkring” translates to “Art Circle,” a reminder of its original function as a gallery and art society.

After my lunch, the waiter that serve me took me around the building, explain the art and took nice photos of me.  It was such an interesting experience.

Walking through its grand entrance, I immediately felt the weight of history. High ceilings, colonial-era architecture, and intricately decorated halls exude a sense of grandeur that is rare in modern Jakarta. Yet the building is not a museum frozen in time. Today, it is lovingly curated by Tugu Hotels & Restaurants, who have transformed it into a space that honors its past while serving as a vibrant hub for dining, art, and cultural events.


While the building and its history were fascinating, the true highlight of my visit was, of course, the food. For lunch, I ordered the beef rendang, served with red rice.

Rendang, originally from West Sumatra, is often hailed as one of the world’s most delicious dishes, and the version I tasted here fully lived up to its reputation. The beef was incredibly tender, slow-cooked until it practically melted in my mouth. The spices — a complex blend of chili, lemongrass, galangal, garlic, ginger, and coconut milk — were perfectly balanced, creating layers of flavor that lingered long after each bite.

What made the dish even more special was the pairing with red rice, a healthier and more earthy alternative to white rice. Its nutty flavor complemented the richness of the rendang beautifully, giving the meal a wholesome, almost rustic dimension.


Beef Rendang

For dessert, I opted for something uniquely local yet creatively presented: kue pancong ice cream. Kue pancong is a traditional coconut cake from Jakarta, usually grilled and served warm. Here, it was reinvented as a modern dessert — served with coconut ice cream that added a refreshing, creamy sweetness. It was the perfect ending to an already memorable meal: familiar yet innovative, rooted in tradition yet playful in execution.

Kue Pancong ice cream

The Suzie Wong Room: An Ode to a Cultural Icon

Among the many intriguing spaces inside the building, one that caught my attention was the Suzie Wong Room. Named after the fictional character from Richard Mason’s 1957 novel The World of Suzie Wong (later adapted into a Hollywood film), this room embodies a mix of nostalgia, romance, and intrigue.

Suzie Wong, the story of a Hong Kong bar girl who falls in love with an English artist, became an icon of mid-20th-century East–West fascination. To the Western imagination, Suzie Wong symbolized a kind of exotic allure and mystery, while for Asian audiences, she represented both fascination and controversy.



At Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, the Suzie Wong Room is not meant to replicate Hong Kong nightlife but rather to capture the spirit of cross-cultural fascination. The owners of Tugu have long been drawn to characters and narratives that embody East–West encounters, and Suzie Wong fits perfectly into that tapestry. The room is adorned with vintage décor, romantic lighting, and artwork that pays tribute to her legend. Dining there felt like being part of a story — one that straddles continents, cultures, and histories.


The Grand Rijsttafel

One of the most fascinating culinary traditions highlighted at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is the Grand Rijsttafel. Literally translated from Dutch as “rice table,” rijsttafel is a dining experience that was born during the colonial era in Indonesia.

The concept emerged in the early 20th century when Dutch colonials, eager to impress visiting dignitaries and guests, created a banquet-style meal showcasing the diversity of the archipelago’s cuisines. Instead of serving one or two dishes, the rijsttafel could feature dozens of small plates, each highlighting a different region’s specialties — from spicy Sumatran curries to Javanese stews, Balinese satays, and Sulawesi seafood dishes.





At Tugu Kunstkring Paleis, the Grand Rijsttafel is more than just a meal; it is a cultural performance. Waiters dressed in traditional attire serve an elaborate array of dishes, often accompanied by music and storytelling. It is a living reminder of Indonesia’s culinary richness, while also echoing the complexities of its colonial past.

Dining at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis is not just about the food — it is about the experience. Every element, from the architecture to the artwork, from the themed rooms to the cultural performances, is designed to immerse you in a story.

It is an experience that makes you pause and reflect on the layers of Jakarta’s identity: colonial legacies, cultural crossroads, and the enduring richness of Indonesian traditions. In a city where much of the past is overshadowed by rapid modernisation, places like Tugu Kunstkring Paleis serve as living reminders that history can be preserved not just in books and museums but also in food, art, and spaces where people gather.



My lunch at Tugu Kunstkring Paleis was one of the most memorable dining experiences I’ve had in Jakarta. Set in a magnificent Dutch colonial building filled with art and history, the restaurant offers much more than food. It offers a journey into the past, a celebration of Indonesia’s culinary traditions, and a platform for cultural storytelling.

Wednesday, August 20, 2025

Hearty Hakka Food at Michele's Kitchen PJ

 Kuala Lumpur - Food has a way of carrying culture, history, and family tradition on every plate. On a recent dinner at Michele’s Kitchen in Petaling Jaya, I was reminded of how powerful this connection can be. Known for serving comforting Hakka cuisine, Michele’s Kitchen has earned a reputation for dishes that warm both the heart and the stomach. Our dinner that night felt like stepping into someone’s home, where every dish carried the authenticity and pride of a cuisine passed down through generations.


The Star of the Table: Hakka Abacus Seeds (Suan Pan Zi)

We began with Hakka Abacus Seeds, or Suan Pan Zi. This traditional and auspicious dish is a hallmark of Hakka culture, often served during festive occasions. Shaped to resemble the beads of an abacus, they symbolise wealth and prosperity; a reminder that food is not only nourishment but also a bearer of meaning.

Made from yam and tapioca flour, the abacus seeds had a chewy texture, lightly stir-fried with minced meat, mushrooms, and dried shrimp. Every bite carried a smoky fragrance and umami depth, balanced by the gentle sweetness of yam. It’s easy to see why this dish remains a crowd favourite both in Malaysia and Singapore: it’s filling, comforting, and layered with significance.

The next two dishes showcased Hakka cooking’s deep, soulful flavours. The braised pork was tender and succulent, slow-cooked until the fat melted into the sauce, creating a glossy richness that clung to every bite of rice. It was the kind of dish that reminded me of family dinners at home—unpretentious, deeply satisfying, and best enjoyed with good company.

Equally memorable was the yam with pork. This dish balanced the earthy creaminess of yam with the savoury richness of pork, a pairing that worked surprisingly well. The yam soaked up the sauce beautifully, creating a soft, velvety texture that contrasted with the meaty pork. This was a dish that lingered on the palate long after the meal ended.

No Hakka meal would be complete without dishes that highlight bolder flavours, and Michele’s Kitchen did not disappoint. The pork intestines were well-prepared—clean, chewy, and infused with seasoning that brought out their unique taste. It’s a dish that not everyone might go for, but for those who appreciate it, it offered a satisfying, rustic depth.

The Hakka Ngoh Hiang, a five-spiced meat roll wrapped in beancurd skin, was another highlight. Crispy on the outside and juicy within, it delivered both crunch and flavour in every bite. The balance of seasoning inside the roll was just right—not overpowering, but aromatic enough to stand out.

We ended the meal with something lighter: stir-fried sweet potato leaves. After the richness of pork and yam, this dish brought a refreshing balance to the table. Lightly seasoned with garlic, the greens were tender yet slightly crisp, adding a clean finish to an otherwise indulgent dinner.


Dining at Michele’s Kitchen was more than just eating—it was experiencing Hakka culture through food. Each dish, from the symbolic abacus seeds to the hearty braised pork, carried stories of tradition, family, and heritage. It reminded me that the best meals are often not about fancy plating or exotic ingredients, but about food made with heart and authenticity.

Michele's Kitchen Awards


Dapur Solo Restaurant, Botani Square Bogor

Bogor - I decided to have lunch at Dapur Solo , a well-known Indonesian restaurant chain, at Botani Square Mall . It turned out to be a sati...