Jakarta - On the evening of 7 July, I finally visited one of Jakarta’s most iconic nasi Padang restaurants, Pagi Sore, specifically the Sunter branch. For years, I’ve heard friends and locals alike mention this place with a certain reverence — both for its food and its price tag. “Yes, it’s expensive,” some would say. “But you pay for quality.” Others warned me it might be overrated. So, with cautious optimism and a hearty appetite, I went to find out for myself what the hype was all about.
The Restaurant: Spacious, Bustling, and Efficient
The first thing that strikes you about Pagi Sore in Sunter is how massive the restaurant is. It's built to accommodate crowds — and judging by the number of people dining that evening, they do just that. The layout is practical but polished, with large tables, efficient lighting, and an overall air of quiet confidence. The service was swift and professional. Despite dining alone, I was seated promptly and within minutes, my table was a sea of colourful dishes — the signature Padang "hidang" style in full swing.
The Hidang Experience: Feast for the Eyes, But...
As is customary, once you’re seated, the servers quickly bring out small plates of all the most popular dishes — this is called hidang, and it’s a big part of the experience. You can also choose a la carte if preferred, but I opted to see the full lineup. You only pay for what you actually touch or consume. Sounds fair and convenient.
Why Is Pagi Sore So Popular?
Founded in 1973, Pagi Sore has expanded to five outlets in Jakarta, cementing its reputation as one of the go-to places for Nasi Padang, a Minang cuisine from West Sumatra known for its rich flavours and bold spices.
So, what makes it so popular, even when many locals say the prices are steep?
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Consistency – The brand has maintained a standard of taste and quality across all its outlets.
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Efficient Hidang System – You’re presented with a full spread, and only pay for what you eat.
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Signature Dishes – From Chicken Pop to their signature Rendang, regulars return for specific dishes.
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Atmosphere – It’s family-friendly, group-friendly, and ideal for hosting out-of-town guests who want an introduction to classic Indonesian flavors.
Still, as I was about to discover, popularity doesn’t always guarantee satisfaction.
🍛 Beef Rendang – A Disappointment
The first dish I tore open from its thin plastic wrap was the Beef Rendang, arguably the most iconic Padang dish and the gold standard by which all Padang restaurants are judged.
Unfortunately, it was underwhelming.
I expected tender, melt-in-your-mouth beef infused with slow-cooked spices and coconut milk. Instead, I got something that felt more like beef jerky — dry, overly chewy, and surprisingly spicy. While the depth of flavour was there, the texture and spice level left me more fatigued than satisfied. I didn’t finish it.
🥥 Sayur Nangka (Jackfruit Vegetable) – A Pleasant Surprise
Next, I sampled the jackfruit vegetable dish, and this one was a win. Bathed in rich coconut milk and well-seasoned, the jackfruit was soft, flavourful, and comforting. It had a home-cooked warmth to it that stood in stark contrast to the rendang. I would definitely order this again.
🍗 Ayam Pop (Chicken Pop) – Their Most Popular Dish
Next came Ayam Pop, one of Pagi Sore’s signature offerings. It’s a lightly fried chicken dish served with sambal on the side. While the chicken was juicy and cooked well, it didn’t quite blow me away. The sambal helped elevate it, but for a dish touted as the star of the show, it felt… safe. Pleasant, but not extraordinary.
🍧 Es Campur (Dessert) – A Sweet Ending
To round off the meal, I had Es Campur, the classic Indonesian iced dessert with mixed toppings. It was refreshing and visually appealing, and definitely helped balance out the spices from earlier dishes. The waiter took a while to bring this dessert to my table and it started to melt. There was a strawberry topping and it fell on the table when I moved this dessert closer to me.
Price vs. Expectations
As expected, the bill came out on the higher end for a solo dinner — especially for Jakarta standards. While I knew going in that Pagi Sore isn’t cheap, I did hope the quality of food would justify the premium. Unfortunately, it didn’t live up to my expectations, especially when the highlight of my meal was the vegetable dish and dessert.
It's clear that you’re also paying for the brand — the heritage, the presentation, and the dining experience itself. For first-timers or visitors to Jakarta wanting a structured, clean introduction to Padang food, this place still holds value. But if you're a seasoned eater of local cuisine looking for authenticity and boldness at every bite, you might find better elsewhere for less.
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