Bogor - Nestled in the heart of Bogor, West Java, lies one of Indonesia’s oldest and most iconic green sanctuaries — the Bogor Botanical Gardens (Kebun Raya Bogor). Known for its sprawling 87 hectares of curated greenery, colonial heritage, and scientific importance, the gardens have stood for over two centuries as both a living museum and a place of retreat for locals and visitors alike. On my recent morning walk through this national treasure, I was reminded not only of its natural beauty but also its historical depth and the quiet stories that unfold as one wanders through its grounds.
Finding the Entrance: A Walk Before the Walk
Staying at a hotel near the western side of the gardens, I expected a straightforward entrance. But as I learned, there is only one main entrance into the Botanical Gardens, and unfortunately, the hotel’s front desk was not familiar with the details. While the West Gate was physically closer, it was closed to public entry, and so I had to walk nearly 10 minutes further around to reach the official entrance. There were many people running or walking the perimeter of the Botanical Gardens. There is a Rp 15,000 entrance fee.
Though slightly inconvenient, this extra walk had its charm — it gave me a chance to see the bustling streets surrounding Bogor’s most famous landmark.
First Stop: Istana Bogor (Bogor Presidential Palace)
Once inside, the first landmark that immediately captures attention is the Istana Bogor — the Bogor Presidential Palace. This elegant white building, with its classical European architectural influence and sprawling lawns, is one of six presidential palaces in Indonesia.
As a visitor, I was only allowed to admire it from the outside and take photographs. Still, even from a distance, the palace exudes a sense of grandeur and calm. Originally built in the mid-18th century as the residence of the Dutch Governor-General, it later became one of the favourite retreats of Indonesian presidents. Its white pillars, long corridors, and serene surroundings reflect both history and power.
The Bamboo Forest
From the palace, I continued my walk toward the Bamboo Forest, a tranquil area that feels like stepping into nature’s cathedral. Towering bamboo stalks arched overhead, their rustling leaves whispering in the breeze. The light filtering through the thick clusters created an almost spiritual ambiance — cool, quiet, and grounding.
This area reminded me of similar bamboo groves in Asia, yet it carried a distinctly Indonesian character. It was easy to imagine why such spaces are often considered sacred and calming. Walking under the shade of these living pillars was one of the most peaceful moments of my morning.
A short walk away, I came across one of the gardens’ more unexpected landmarks — the Dutch cemetery. Dating back to colonial times, this cemetery holds the remains of Dutch officials, scientists, and their families who once lived and worked in Bogor.
Though modest in size, the weathered tombstones stood as silent reminders of the layered history embedded in these gardens. Surrounded by greenery, the cemetery felt less eerie and more like a quiet archive of lives intertwined with the history of Bogor and Indonesia’s botanical legacy.
Walking across the Botanical Gardens is no small task. Covering nearly 87 hectares, it can feel like a journey across an open-air museum. The paths are long and winding, shaded by massive trees that are themselves centuries old.
While the gardens offer many picturesque corners, they are also showing signs of age. Wooden panels and benches in some areas were rusting or broken, suggesting that the site could benefit from major renovation and upkeep. Despite these shortcomings, the gardens still exude a timeless charm, the kind of place where history, nature, and culture blend seamlessly.
Teijsmann Garden: A Tribute to a Pioneer
Further along, I reached the Teijsmann Garden, a section named after Johannes Elias Teijsmann, the Dutch botanist who served as curator of the gardens for more than 50 years in the 19th century. Under his leadership, the Bogor Botanical Gardens expanded their scientific research and introduced numerous plant species from across the Indonesian archipelago and beyond.
The Teijsmann Garden serves as both a memorial and a celebration of the role he played in making Kebun Raya Bogor a world-class botanical center. Walking through it, I felt a sense of gratitude for the dedication of early botanists who preserved, studied, and expanded Indonesia’s rich plant diversity.
Cactus Park: A Desert in the Tropics
Among the more surprising features of the gardens is the Cactus Park, which showcases a variety of cacti from around the world. Standing amid Bogor’s cool and humid climate, the sight of desert plants was striking.
The collection, though modest, highlighted the global connections of the gardens, emphasising their role not just as a local retreat but as part of a broader international network of botanical study.
Sir Stamford Raffles’ Wife Memorial
Perhaps the most poignant moment of my walk came when I stumbled upon the memorial of Lady Olivia Marianne Raffles, the first wife of Sir Stamford Raffles, who served as the British Lieutenant-Governor of Java. Lady Olivia died in Bogor in 1814, and her memorial stands within the gardens as a quiet testament to love, loss, and colonial history.
Simple yet elegant, the memorial brought a human touch to the grand narratives of empire and botany. Standing before it, I felt connected not just to the history of the gardens but also to the deeply personal stories embedded within its landscape.
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