Singapore - Some mornings are meant for sleeping in, but on this particular day, I laced up my walking shoes and set off on a journey that combined my love for local food, Singapore’s rich history, and the quiet beauty of our park connectors. What started as a simple craving for Ku Chai Kueh and Soon Kueh ended up as a fulfilling 8-kilometre walk from Serangoon Central to Kovan, then onward to Kampung Lorong Buangkok, and finally through the Punggol Park Connector to Layar LRT. All in all, it was a 3-hour walk that reconnected me with Singapore’s past and present — one bite and step at a time.
From Serangoon Central to Kovan – A Breakfast to Remember
My day started early, around 7:30 AM, as I left the heart of Serangoon Central. The streets were just beginning to stir with life — uncles reading their morning paper, aunties doing tai chi in the void decks, and the aroma of kopi and kaya toast filling the air.
I strolled past familiar HDB blocks and neighborhood shops, eventually reaching Kovan Market and Food Centre, one of my favourite haunts for traditional Teochew breakfast dishes.
What drew me here was a humble but popular stall known for its handmade Ku Chai Kueh and Soon Kueh. These translucent-skinned dumplings are delicate but flavour-packed. The Ku Chai Kueh, filled with chives and a hint of garlic, brought an earthy freshness with each bite. The Soon Kueh, stuffed with bamboo shoots, bangkuang, and dried shrimp, was savoury and soft, with just the right chewiness from the rice flour skin. Both were served with a drizzle of light soy sauce and a generous spoonful of spicy sambal.
As I sat on the stool, surrounded by early risers and the clatter of dishes, I was reminded why these dishes have stood the test of time — they are comforting, handmade with pride, and deeply rooted in Teochew heritage
A Cantonese Detour: Char Siew Chee Cheong Fun
Not one to end breakfast on a single note, I crossed the street to indulge in another classic — Cantonese-style Chee Cheong Fun. This stall, famous among locals and hidden in plain sight, serves silky rice rolls freshly steamed and filled with sweet, smoky char siew. The rice rolls were soft and warm, swimming in a light soy-based sauce with a sprinkle of sesame seeds.
Each bite was balanced — the gentle sweetness of the char siew, the smooth texture of the rice roll, and that familiar umami-rich sauce. It was simplicity done perfectly, a reminder that even in a fast-paced city, there’s still a place for lovingly prepared food.
With a satisfied belly, I took a deep breath and set off for the second leg of my journey — one that would transport me from modern Singapore to a forgotten past. Durian season is ending soon and this stall still has lots of fresh durians to sell.
Into the Past: Kampung Lorong Buangkok
I made a short detour to a small park in Hougang which was along the way - Ci Yuan Sports Park.
It took me about 40 minutes on foot to reach Kampung Lorong Buangkok, Singapore’s last surviving kampung (village) on the mainland. Tucked away in the Hougang area near Yio Chu Kang, the kampung is like stepping into a time capsule.
Originally established in 1956, this kampung has withstood the march of time and urbanisation. Amid a sea of HDBs and highways, it remains a pocket of nostalgia, with wooden houses, zinc rooftops, roosters crowing, and fruit trees lining the paths. The kampung is home to fewer than 30 families, most of whom have lived there for decades.
There are no security gates, no intercoms — just open doors and open hearts. The pace is slow. No one was in sight, and doors lock with a sign "Private Property". There’s a certain charm to it all — an authenticity and warmth that many of us yearn for in our concrete jungle.
I walked quietly, taking in the sounds of nature and the echoes of the past. While redevelopment eventually looms over this tiny piece of history, for now, Kampung Lorong Buangkok stands as a living, breathing reminder of our roots. This was my 2nd time to this time frozen kampung.
Walking the Green Veins of Singapore: Punggol Park Connector
After my kampung visit, I continued my journey via the Punggol Park Connector, which runs like a green ribbon through the northeastern corridor of Singapore. The sun was now higher, but the path was shaded by trees and occasionally flanked by canal views and gardens.
Joggers passed by with earbuds in, aunties brisk-walked in sun visors, and cyclists rang their bells cheerily as they overtook me. I took my time, absorbing the peacefulness of the route. It felt almost meditative — the rhythm of my footsteps, the gentle rustle of leaves, and the distant chatter of birds.
As I approached the end of the connector, I reached Layar LRT Station, ready to hitch a ride back home. My legs were a little sore, my shirt clung with the weight of humidity, but I felt deeply satisfied.
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