Hangzhou - After spending several memorable days exploring the ancient canals and charming streets of Wuzhen, it was finally time for us to return to Hangzhou for the next part of our journey.
We started the morning with a simple but comforting Chinese breakfast. The weather was cool and pleasant, making the warm food especially satisfying. We had silky warm tofu, tea-soaked eggs, and a bowl of warm bean soup. The breakfast was light, nutritious, and very much the type of local meal that Chinese people enjoy daily. There is something comforting about starting the day with simple traditional food instead of heavy breakfasts.
After finishing our meal, we prepared for our journey back to Hangzhou.
Originally, we had considered taking a Didi taxi combined with the High-Speed Rail, but the hotel front desk strongly recommended the direct long-distance coach bus instead. According to them, it would be cheaper, more convenient, and would avoid the hassle of changing transport between stations.
Taking their advice turned out to be a good decision.
The direct bus from Wuzhen to Hangzhou was comfortable and straightforward. Once we boarded, we simply relaxed and enjoyed the ride. The journey took approximately two and a half hours, and the experienced driver handled the roads very smoothly throughout the trip. Along the way, we passed through peaceful countryside landscapes, highways lined with greenery, and smaller towns that offered a glimpse into everyday life outside the major tourist areas.
Compared to navigating railway stations with luggage, the direct bus felt much less stressful.
Once we arrived back in Hangzhou, we headed straight to our earlier hotel and temporarily left our luggage there because our main destination for the day was the famous Lingyin Temple. We had our graving for crab roe noodle again and one each of the famous crab before we leave Hangzhou.
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After our lunch, we boarded a local public bus 5Rmb each to reach Lingyin Temple. The journey itself already hinted at how popular the attraction was. As we approached the area, crowds became noticeably larger. There were tourists from all over China as well as overseas visitors, all making their way toward the temple grounds.
Lingyin Temple, which translates to “Temple of the Soul’s Retreat,” is one of the oldest and most significant Zen Buddhist temples in China. Located amidst lush mountains, forests, and bamboo groves, the temple is not only a religious site but also one of Hangzhou’s most important cultural and historical attractions.
Founded in 328 AD by the Indian monk Huili, the temple has more than 1,600 years of history and was once a major centre for Chan (Zen) Buddhism during imperial China.
The moment we entered the area, it became clear why Lingyin Temple is considered one of China’s most revered Buddhist sites. Before even reaching the main temple, visitors must first pass through the famous Feilai Feng, also known as Flying Peak.
This limestone hill is covered with hundreds of ancient Buddhist carvings and grottoes carved directly into the rock faces between the 10th and 14th centuries.
Walking through Feilai Feng felt like entering an open-air historical gallery. Everywhere we looked, there were intricate stone carvings of Buddhas, monks, and mythical figures weathered by centuries of history. Some statues were massive while others were hidden quietly among the rocks and vegetation. The carvings carried an incredible sense of age and spirituality.
The surrounding environment added even more beauty to the experience. Dense trees, bamboo groves, flowing streams, and misty mountain scenery created a peaceful atmosphere despite the large crowds.
Eventually, we reached the main temple complex itself.
Inside the temple halls stood one of Lingyin Temple’s greatest treasures — the enormous wooden Sakyamuni Buddha statue. Carved from camphor wood and coated in gold leaf, the seated Buddha rises almost 25 metres high and is one of the largest wooden Buddha statues in China.
The sight of the giant Buddha inside the prayer hall was truly breathtaking. Worshippers quietly offered incense and prayers while monks moved calmly around the temple grounds. Despite the constant flow of visitors, the temple still retained a strong sense of serenity and spiritual calm.
One interesting aspect of the temple is its connection to the famous monk Ji Gong from the Southern Song Dynasty. Known for his eccentric personality, compassion, and unconventional habits, Ji Gong remains a beloved folk figure throughout China. The temple grounds contain a hall dedicated to him, attracting many visitors curious about his legendary stories.
Lingyin Temple is enormous, and we spent several hours walking through the various halls, courtyards, stairways, and forested pathways. The entire area felt more like a massive spiritual and cultural park than simply a temple.
By the end of our visit, we were physically tired but deeply impressed by the beauty, scale, and history of the place.
We then took the local bus back to our hotel, retrieved our luggage, and prepared for dinner. Before ending the day, I had to eat the famous Hangzhou snack — Cong Rou Bing (葱肉饼).
These savoury flatbreads are made by stuffing thin dough with minced pork and scallions before baking them directly against the hot inner walls of a cylindrical oven, similar to how Indian tandoor ovens work.
Freshly baked and piping hot, the crispy exterior combined wonderfully with the juicy pork filling inside. The snack was simple, flavourful, and incredibly satisfying after such a long day of travelling and walking.
As we enjoyed our Cong Rou Bing while looking out at the busy Hangzhou streets, I reflected on how much variety China offers within a single journey from ancient water towns and Buddhist temples to local buses, traditional breakfasts, and delicious street food.
It had been another fulfilling and memorable day of exploration in one of China’s most beautiful cultural cities.
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